Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964
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Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


167 Opinions

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Description

This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.

The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.

P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!

Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.

Protection

Standard Rack, extra thin gear.
It is not harder than 10a. If you tried going straight up from the bolt to the piton at the crux section then you will have found it harder. If you angled slightly left after the bolt then you will find it a bit easier as the holds are better. Fun climb, especially if you do the direct finish and don't move right up the easy groove. Oct 12, 2008
vanishing spy
  5.10
vanishing spy  
  5.10
Get on this one before the feet get anymore glassy. Apr 19, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
This was my first 5.10 onsight and my 100th route in the Gunks, one of my all-time favorite climbs at this this crag. I've climbed this at least 20 times since, and I've never fallen - and never felt secure on the move above the bolt to the horizontal. Look out for the last move too, it feels 5.9 and protection is below your feet until it's over. Jan 9, 2012
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
  5.10a
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
  5.10a
Last section after the big horizontal is run out and the climbing is continuously hard and thin. Back up the horizontal with a #2 and #3 because the fall would be big. Awesome scary face climbing. Sep 8, 2013
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b
^^ I took that whipper the other day. I fell at least 20 feet on only the #3 May 15, 2014
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.10b
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.10b
Hard for the grade. The first horizontal takes a good offset cam (0/1 or 1/2, I don't remember). May 19, 2014
Caz Drach
C'Wood, UT
Caz Drach   C'Wood, UT
Excellent route that is more technical than most at the Gunks. All the moves are very manageable (some flexibility will make the physical crux easier) its the mental game that will be tested from the bolt to the pin. Footwork is key. A gem of a route. Oct 6, 2016
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Climbed this again yesterday. More technical than most at this grade in the gunks but manageable and felt 5.10a. As others have said, get good gear in the last big horizontal (#3/#2 helpful) before the upper section. Oct 10, 2016
2 of the 3 pins have been removed from this route. Only the first remains. Caveat accordingly. Apr 10, 2017
SethG  
I don't think I ever led it when the pins were there, but unless I'm mistaken these pins were in horizontals that also take gear. So I don't think the fact that the upper pins are gone changes the protection rating.

The low pin after the initial stand-up move is still in place, and even that pin is unnecessary. You can get a cam just above, from the same stance. Apr 11, 2017
mnjsan  
Seth is correct. The pin above the crux section was quite unnecessary and according to the GCC pretty rotted out. The horizontal where the pin was will easily take pro. Apr 12, 2017
Systematic  
 
I'm really surprised no one is talking about the nut placement in the seam 2" away from the bolt. :)
  • **Gear beta*** The first horizontal will also take a yellow totem cam in a flare that doesn't look like a placement. Up high I found useful a purple / Grey Metolius.
Apr 24, 2017
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
 
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
 
One of the more beautiful slabs around. Must do. Sep 4, 2018