All Locations > New York > Gunks > Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth

Never Never Land

Name: Never Never Land
Rating: 3.4

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Intergalactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Never Say Never T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A3+ X
	Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964
Page Views:	16,063 total · 77/month
Shared By:	Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, RJ B Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

236 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Your Star Rating:

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

-none-

Description

This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.

The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.

P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!

Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.