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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964
Page Views: 11,438 total, 80/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.

The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.

P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!

Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.

Protection

Standard Rack, extra thin gear.
Systematic  
 
One pin and one bolt on the route as of 4/22/17. With all the bickering about fixed gear I'm really surprised no one is talking about the nut placement in the seam 2" away from the bolt. :)


  • **Gear beta***
The first horizontal will also take a yellow totem cam in a flare that doesn't look like a placement. Up high I found useful a purple / Grey Metolius. Apr 24, 2017
mnjsan  
Seth is correct. The pin above the crux section was quite unnecessary and according to the GCC pretty rotted out. The horizontal where the pin was will easily take pro. Apr 12, 2017
SethG  
I don't think I ever led it when the pins were there, but unless I'm mistaken these pins were in horizontals that also take gear. So I don't think the fact that the upper pins are gone changes the protection rating.

The low pin after the initial stand-up move is still in place, and even that pin is unnecessary. You can get a cam just above, from the same stance. Apr 11, 2017
2 of the 3 pins have been removed from this route. Only the first remains. Caveat accordingly. Apr 10, 2017
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Climbed this again yesterday. More technical than most at this grade in the gunks but manageable and felt 5.10a. As others have said, get good gear in the last big horizontal (#3/#2 helpful) before the upper section. Oct 10, 2016
Caz Drach
Sugarhouse, UT
Caz Drach   Sugarhouse, UT
Excellent route that is more technical than most at the Gunks. All the moves are very manageable (some flexibility will make the physical crux easier) its the mental game that will be tested from the bolt to the pin. Footwork is key. A gem of a route. Oct 6, 2016
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.10b
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.10b
Hard for the grade. The first horizontal takes a good offset cam (0/1 or 1/2, I don't remember). May 19, 2014
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b
^^ I took that whipper the other day. I fell at least 20 feet on only the #3 May 15, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
  5.10a
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
  5.10a
Last section after the big horizontal is run out and the climbing is continuously hard and thin. Back up the horizontal with a #2 and #3 because the fall would be big. Awesome scary face climbing. Sep 8, 2013
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10a
This was my first 5.10 onsight and my 100th route in the Gunks, one of my all-time favorite climbs at this this crag. I've climbed this at least 20 times since, and I've never fallen - and never felt secure on the move above the bolt to the horizontal. Look out for the last move too, it feels 5.9 and protection is below your feet until you clip the final piton. Jan 9, 2012
vanishing spy
  5.10
vanishing spy  
  5.10
Get on this one before the feet get anymore glassy. Apr 19, 2010
I think that you mean two pitons and one bolt. There has never been more than one bolt. It is not harder than 10a. If you tried going straight up from the bolt to the piton at the crux section then you will have found it harder. If you angled slightly left after the bolt then you will find it a bit easier as the holds are better. Fun climb, especially if you do the direct finish and don't move right up the easy groove. Oct 12, 2008
Cory B  
awesome route! Two bolts, a piton, light thoughts and trust in your feet get you through this route.

I actually thought coronary was easier though...is 10a correct? Oct 12, 2008
gilp
 
gilp  
 
awesome climb. seems improbable that feet will work in the crux section, but they will. crux well protected and the upper section backs off to 5.8 or so. Sep 27, 2006