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Never Never Land
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 270
votes
Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Intergalactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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V7 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Weber Line T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964 |
| Page Views: | 16,949 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
Photos
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