Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964
Page Views: 13,991 total · 79/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: RJ B

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.

The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.

P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!

Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.

Protection

Standard Rack, extra thin gear.

Photos