Never Never Land
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964 |
Page Views: | 16,063 total · 77/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
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Description
This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
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