Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran and Pete Vlachos (1965)
Page Views: 6,465 total · 43/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 17, 2008
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Wisecrack is somewhat of an oddity amongst Gunks routes: it follows a vertical crack system, and you'll probably find yourself making a few real crack moves on it!

From Optimistic: You know how people say about some climbs, "this is a great route for someone just breaking into the grade?" Well, this is a great route for someone just breaking OUT of the grade.

P1 - Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system, heading for the overhang at a notch above an alcove. Surmount the overhang (some layback, some jam), then continue up the crack and face.

P2 - Scamper up easy (but loose and vegetated) ground to the GT ledge.

P1 and P2 can be combined into a long 60m pitch. If you're only climbing P1, you'll want to either set a belay or a good directional, then aim rightwards towards the bolted anchor on Middle Earth.

P3 (description courtesy of Brian) - Start below the huge right-facing corner capped by a roof, well left of the good ledge. Make a bouldery move up onto the face, head up into the corner and eventually out left around the arete, and pass several easy overhangs on your way to the clifftop.

Rappel Middle Earth - be careful of loose pebbles, and climbers below you. It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Location

Wisecrack follows a broken crack system between Absurdland and Middle Earth. Start halfway down a steep slope at the left edge of a nice white face; step right across a slab into the crack system.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack; crux(es) well-protected.

Photos