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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran and Pete Vlachos (1965)
Page Views: 4,668 total, 40/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 17, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Wisecrack is somewhat of an oddity amongst Gunks routes: it follows a vertical crack system, and you'll probably find yourself making a few real crack moves on it!

From Optimistic: You know how people say about some climbs, "this is a great route for someone just breaking into the grade?" Well, this is a great route for someone just breaking OUT of the grade.

P1 - Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system, heading for the overhang at a notch above an alcove. Surmount the overhang (some layback, some jam), then continue up the crack and face.

P2 - Scamper up easy (but loose and vegetated) ground to the GT ledge.

P1 and P2 can be combined into a long 60m pitch. If you're only climbing P1, you'll want to either set a belay or a good directional, then aim rightwards towards the rap tree on Middle Earth.

P3 (description courtesy of Brian) - Start below the huge right-facing corner capped by a roof, well left of the good ledge. Make a bouldery move up onto the face, head up into the corner and eventually out left around the arete, and pass several easy overhangs on your way to the clifftop.

Rappel Middle Earth - be careful of loose pebbles, and climbers below you. It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Location

Wisecrack follows a broken crack system between Absurdland and Middle Earth. Start halfway down a steep slope at the left edge of a nice white face; step right across a slab into the crack system.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack; crux(es) well-protected.

Photos

EricBacus
Germantown, NY
  5.6
EricBacus   Germantown, NY
  5.6
Good first pitch, all G and interesting moves. I would save yourself from doing the dirty, not-fun rest of the climb. Aug 28, 2013
Optimistic
New Paltz
 
Optimistic   New Paltz
 
You know how people say about some climbs, "this is a great route for someone just breaking into the grade?" Well, this is a great route for someone just breaking OUT of the grade. I'd call it more educational than fun: gear is fairly tricky to place (lots of flares and crystals to deal with) and the moves are a little awkward.

I'd agree that the move at the end of the crack is a bit of a surprise as well, and gear is below your feet (so far as I could tell) when you pull the move.

[Edit: the above remarks refer to the first pitch. Higher didn't look too appealing.] Apr 17, 2011
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Regarding pitch 3 - I don't remember any run-outs and it is a fun pitch and only 5.5. Pitch 3 goes up the big right facing corner just left of the Middle Earth/Bombs Away Dream Baby recess. I seem to remember some pins on it under the overhangs. Jan 4, 2010
losbill
 
losbill  
 
Gail I agree with you regarding the crux. I sailed through the bottom and spent a fair amount of time working out gear and moves up top. I ran it up to the GTL. My partner took one look at P3 and decided it wasn't for him, wasn't for me either. Nov 18, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I thought the top of the first pitch, at the top of the crack, going out onto the face was the hardest move for me.

Crux at the bottom is fairly simple once you figure out the move. We rapped off Middle Earth Jul 27, 2008
I've heard it said that there is no tougher 5.6 in the Gunks. And I would agree. Jul 18, 2008