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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Rich Perch, Russ Clune, 1981
Page Views: 278 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2010
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Edit]

Climb straight up the face to a bush and a right-facing flake. Do the sensible thing, step left a foot or two and climb the left side of the short slab to a small ledge. Find a short, right-facing corner. Over the small roof at the corner's top, climb the steep face (crux), then trend up and right to the GT ledge.

Descent: from the GT, walk left to rappel over Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Location [Edit]

Go to the Sente area, then walk right about 65 feet. The start is indistinct, but you should be about 15-20 feet right of Snake: look for the laurel bush and a right-facing flake about 25 feet up. The initial face up to the ledge doesn't appear very inspiring, and it's not, but the climbing above it is quality.

Protection [Edit]

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
A surprisingly fun climb. Avoid the R/X section mentioned in the guidebook by trending to the left. The face climbing was super fun and great gear. Lots of lichen, obviously not climbed very frequently. Thought it was a lot of fun. Jun 16, 2012
Tabo  
Talus of Lichen!
Really liked the route, but it does have a lot of lichen. Rapped from GT ledge. May 3, 2013
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The TofP isn't terribly licheny now. There is a clear path left and right. I thought the start was crux #1 and not well-protected. May 10, 2015

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