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Snowpatch Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Snowpatch Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Becky/Mather (Free) 5.12- (or 5.11+ C1 for 4m) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
	Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Sendero Norte T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2
	Welcome to the Machine T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R

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Elevation:	9,793 ft	2,985 m
GPS:	50.73667, -116.78162 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	147,597 total · 667/month
Shared By:	Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

The impressive Snowpatch Spire is the most obvious spire when entering the Bugaboo's. It stands just to the west of Applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5.8 to 5.12. The largest wall on Snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. The south, west and north faces boast numerous classic free routes such as the popular Snowpatch, Surfs Up, Kraus-McCarthy and Sunshine Crack. Snowpatch Spire is also the most difficult spire to climb with no routes to the top rated under 5.8.

Getting There

All routes on the west face are approached via the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col located on the north end of Snowpatch Spire. After climbing over the Col walk south to your desired route.

For routes on the north face follow the trail from the campground or hut toward the Col and north face is to your left once your in the Col.

The east face is obvious from the hut and the campground.

The south face is accessed via the Bugaboo Glacier. There is a trail to the Glacier from the hut, but from the campground its fastest to just scramble over scree straight toward the Glacier.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Snowpatch Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 63 ● Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/W… Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 12 ● Buckingham Route (easy version) Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 15 ● Wildflowers Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 82 ● Surfs Up Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 14 ● Kraus-McCarthy Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● Flamingo Fling Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 15 ● Furry Pink Arete Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 15 ● Super Direct Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 107 ● Sunshine Crack Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 22 ● Minotaur Direct Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 8 ● Sendero Norte Trad, Alpine 14 pitches