Avg: 3.2 from 50 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||13,289 total · 86/month|
|Shared By:||Hans Bauck on Dec 2, 2007|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Route Overlay Surf's Up.
Route Overlay Surf's Up Pitches 1-4.
Begin at the right side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire, near the Pigeon icefall. Climb 3 pitches of indistinct cracks leading up and right to an alcove.
Looking down from the belay on top of pitch one.
In this photo I am leading Pitch 2. I am looking for the 5.8 bulge, which was still above me. I figured this out and continued up the slot to my left in the photo, and exited it about 20 feet below a large horn wrapped in slings. The 5.8 move was pretty easy. The routefinding on the lower pitches is a bit tricky. The description makes a note of not being suckered up too high.
Though protection is somewhat limited on these first 3 pitches, the climbing is easy. Note that many parties get lost and climb up too far. Slings may indicate bail anchors and be off route.
Pitch 4 is a traverse right from the alcove to reach Surfs Up ledge. This is another place where it's easy to go wrong and go up instead. The ledge itself is an excellent place to have lunch, take a nap, or just enjoy the view.
Surf's Up Ledge.
On Surfs Up ledge
Napping on Surf's Up Ledge. East Face of Pigeon in distance.
Pigeon Spire and the Howsers as seen from Surfs Up ledge
The crack pitches above Surfs Up ledge are excellent, and make the route worthwhile. Follow an obvious handcrack for 2 pitches to the top of the wall.
Looking down at the first pitch above Surf's Up ledge
Scramble or simulclimb to the south summit from here, and descend the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route.
Scramble to summit (3rd with a few 5th class steps).
Overall, a recommended route. Avoid the alpine start, as it's pretty cold over there until the sun hits the route.
Descend via the Kraus-McCarthy rappel route (chain anchors). Four 60m or eight 30m rappels reach the bottom. The second rappel (or first if doing double raps) is a notorious rope eater, so beware. Typically it will get stuck near the station and not be too hard to fix.
If rappeling with a single 60m rope, note that some of the rappels are rope stretchers. Be very careful and be sure to knot the ends of your rope.
The base of the rappel route is close to the base of Surf's Up and there is no need to carry over approach shoes, crampons, or an ice axe.