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Routes in Snowpatch Spire

Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2
Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: B. Dougherty, Art Higbee, August 1974
Page Views: 6,760 total, 50/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route with fun sustained climbing but I give it two stars because the rocks not as clean as some of the more popular routes. But if your looking for a moderate route with no one else on it that's not to far from camp, this might be it. (Note: it's easy to stretch out the pitches described below to go faster as the route pretty much goes straight up with no traversing).

P1/2: Climb up some lichen covered blocks following cracks and flakes to a right facing dihedral, belay here or continue up to the bottom of the large left facing dihedral above and belay. (5.7/8)

P3: Follow the large dihedral with some wider jamming to a belay stance. (5.9)

P4: Continue up the dihedral to another belay. (5.9)

P5: Step right and continue up the main dihedral with more stemming and jamming. (5.9)

P6: Follow thinner cracks and flakes to a large ledge on the arete and belay. (5.9)

P7: Climb a shorter pitch up a crack to the right of the arete. (5.7)

P8: Follow awkward flaring cracks and grooves to the summit ridge and belay. (5.9)

To descend scramble south from the summit and look for a bolt anchor on the west face. These rappels only require one 60m rope with bolt anchors all the way down.

Location

Wildflowers is located on the west face of Snowpatch which is accessed via the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. The start of the route lies almost directly below the south summit and follows a large left facing dihedral. Begin on a ledge about 200' below the dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 3" should suffice.
Tim Banfield
Calgary, Alberta
Tim Banfield   Calgary, Alberta
Have you gone down the west face with only a 60m rope? Re rapped it last week and were right at the ends on a 70m rope on the 4th rap I think. Are there other stations than the 'main' stations on the descent?

Thanks
Tim Aug 14, 2012