All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||B. Dougherty, Art Higbee, August 1974|
|Page Views:||6,884 total · 50/month|
|Shared By:||Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006|
DescriptionThis is a great route with fun sustained climbing but I give it two stars because the rocks not as clean as some of the more popular routes. But if your looking for a moderate route with no one else on it that's not to far from camp, this might be it. (Note: it's easy to stretch out the pitches described below to go faster as the route pretty much goes straight up with no traversing).
P1/2: Climb up some lichen covered blocks following cracks and flakes to a right facing dihedral, belay here or continue up to the bottom of the large left facing dihedral above and belay. (5.7/8)
P3: Follow the large dihedral with some wider jamming to a belay stance. (5.9)
P4: Continue up the dihedral to another belay. (5.9)
P5: Step right and continue up the main dihedral with more stemming and jamming. (5.9)
P6: Follow thinner cracks and flakes to a large ledge on the arete and belay. (5.9)
P7: Climb a shorter pitch up a crack to the right of the arete. (5.7)
P8: Follow awkward flaring cracks and grooves to the summit ridge and belay. (5.9)
To descend scramble south from the summit and look for a bolt anchor on the west face. These rappels only require one 60m rope with bolt anchors all the way down.