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Routes in Snowpatch Spire

Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2
Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,019 total, 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

left of Tom Egan Memorial is a left facing corner about 1 pitch up that angles up and right ultimately joining Tom Egan.

p1 climb broken ledges until able to reach the corner, mostly free 5.10-.
p2 climb the corner (mostly aid) until possible to switch to a crack on the right wall. belay on exposed "seat" (2 ropes fixed to glacier).
p3 climb a steep crack (kb's) to a bolt ladder through a bulge ending on a ledge/alcove.
I'll have to add more once I talk to the other bro's- 15 years does tricks to the mind. Cliff and Craig did the last pitch and came down leaving a topo at the hut. I'll post slides photos asap.

Location

looking from the Applebee campground, the route is on the right side of the wall. Broken ledges lead off the glacier to a ramp like corner system trending up and right. You can also spot the two dihedrals pointing up eventually joining each other (near the mini shield type headwall of Tom Egan).

Protection

standard rack plus 20 pins, mostly small

Photos

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