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Warrior Way
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British A2
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Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,292 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Apr 22, 2008 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
left of Tom Egan Memorial is a left facing corner about 1 pitch up that angles up and right ultimately joining Tom Egan.
p1 climb broken ledges until able to reach the corner, mostly free 5.10-.
p2 climb the corner (mostly aid) until possible to switch to a crack on the right wall. belay on exposed "seat" (2 ropes fixed to glacier).
p3 climb a steep crack (kb's) to a bolt ladder through a bulge ending on a ledge/alcove.
I'll have to add more once I talk to the other bro's- 15 years does tricks to the mind. Cliff and Craig did the last pitch and came down leaving a topo at the hut. I'll post slides photos asap.
p1 climb broken ledges until able to reach the corner, mostly free 5.10-.
p2 climb the corner (mostly aid) until possible to switch to a crack on the right wall. belay on exposed "seat" (2 ropes fixed to glacier).
p3 climb a steep crack (kb's) to a bolt ladder through a bulge ending on a ledge/alcove.
I'll have to add more once I talk to the other bro's- 15 years does tricks to the mind. Cliff and Craig did the last pitch and came down leaving a topo at the hut. I'll post slides photos asap.
Location
looking from the Applebee campground, the route is on the right side of the wall. Broken ledges lead off the glacier to a ramp like corner system trending up and right. You can also spot the two dihedrals pointing up eventually joining each other (near the mini shield type headwall of Tom Egan).
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