All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire
Buckingham Route (easy version)
Avg: 1.8 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Buckingham, Gues, Page, and Wipple 1958|
|Page Views:||3,253 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Meredith DB on Dec 9, 2007|
DescriptionThis version of the Buckingham route doesn't go all the way to the summit of Snowpatch, but has climbing only up to 5.8.
The climb ascends the far north side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire. The route faces NW and can be cold. It is recommended as a good introduction to Bugaboo rock, but although the climbing is fairly easy it is more loose and less aesthetic than other Bugaboo climbs
Start at top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Head up the face for about 70m (usually done in 2 pitches) to gain a large scoop/depression feature that heads up and left. After about 3 more pitches, the depression ends at a dihedral system. Climb out right (not directly up the gorgeous dihedral) and follow flakes and chimneys parallel to the ridge for a couple long pitches (5.7). Stay left of the large black pinnacle. The last pitch leaves from a ledge system: look for two bolts to the left that protect 5.8 slab moves up the face to the top of the tower.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes from fixed anchors. As of August 2007 not all the anchors were in great shape - consider bringing gear or webbing to improve some of the anchors. Also beware of the many rope-eating flakes when rappelling.
LocationThis climb ascends the far north side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire. The route faces NW and can be cold. Start at top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col.
The start of the climbing is not incredibly obvious - see the beta photo to see what the first pitch looks like.