Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 20 pitches, Grade V
FA: Art Higbee and David Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 2,209 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 22, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Sunshine Wall Collapse
The key to getting up this route without doing 5.12c fell off, some time before 2007. I always thought this route was as good as Half Dome. Thank you for pointing out the collapse, Hanshan.

I took off the route description since climbers interested in the east face are not usually looking for the easy way. Super Direct for example.

Super Direct Topo: mountainproject.com/images/…

HISTORY
Art Higbee and David Breashears once needed no introduction, but 1975 was awhile ago. Climbers took big risks then to leave no trace. True to the clean climbing code, Higbee and Breashears published little about this alpine route of impressive size. A hand-drawn topo was left in the Hut Book.

Photos

hanshan
Canada Mofuga
hanshan   Canada Mofuga
This climb no longer exists. The flake at the start fell off years ago, there is a 5.12c direct start farther right. Aug 30, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.11-
Wow, this route really is like the regular route on Half Dome! Sorry to have missed your revelation Hanshan. Thank you!

Maybe instead of 5.12, just a new bolt ladder like Half Dome - it is a lot easier than the other east face routes, almost certainly no one has ever taken it to the true summit. Valley Giants might make the chimney fun too.

This photo with beta for Superdirect on the west side shows how hard it might be to climb to the highest summit.
mountainproject.com/images/… Nov 2, 2015