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Routes in Snowpatch Spire

Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sendero Norte T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2
Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: C. Brazeau and Q.Brett
Page Views: 400 total · 16/month
Shared By: Q B on Aug 26, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This entry pitch is not new, done by Topher Donahue and Patience Gribble, Tower ArĂȘte, 5.11 (although a direct line looks possible if I remember, another thin seam to the left).
Pitch 2 (5.8) a long pitch approaches the dihedral on left via wandery ledges, blocks, and flowers. Stop beneath a gleaming right-facing corner, unfortunately slammed shut.
Pitch 3 (5.12R) Look slightly right from below the blank corner. Climb over 15 feet reaching an overlap with some flakey holds, you are standing on a pillar. It is a bit spicy but provides the just-good-enough edge or two, finishing with a granite hueco)!
Pitch 4 (5.10) heads up a beautiful left-facing, widening hand crack that parallels the original dihedral system. Good climbing, belay at a descent stance.
Pitch 5 (5.11) a longer pitch climbing the next wide hands and fists splitter, a burly and radical pitch, with a thoughtful finish stepping left to a descent stance back in the dihedral system.
Pitch 6 (5.11-) was mine, and I must admit: I wanted out. I headed up a short ways attempting to complete the direct line but the flaring crack and kitty litter was too intimidating. I veered sharp right, foot-traversing, then climbing up a sketchy layback flake. Mind the ridiculous rope drag, step hard right again and up onto moderate terrain. Gain the ridge and moderate blocks to the summit of Snowpatch.

publications.americanalpine…

Location

West Face of Snowpatch Spire.

Protection

Doubles in fingers to #4 cams. Small wires nice for the first pitch.

Photos

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