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Wile Flowers
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British R
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | C. Brazeau and Q.Brett |
Page Views: | 1,516 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Q B on Aug 26, 2016 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This entry pitch is not new, done by Topher Donahue and Patience Gribble, Tower Arête, 5.11 (although a direct line looks possible if I remember, another thin seam to the left).
Pitch 2 (5.8) a long pitch approaches the dihedral on left via wandery ledges, blocks, and flowers. Stop beneath a gleaming right-facing corner, unfortunately slammed shut.
Pitch 3 (5.12R) Look slightly right from below the blank corner. Climb over 15 feet reaching an overlap with some flakey holds, you are standing on a pillar. It is a bit spicy but provides the just-good-enough edge or two, finishing with a granite hueco)!
Pitch 4 (5.10) heads up a beautiful left-facing, widening hand crack that parallels the original dihedral system. Good climbing, belay at a descent stance.
Pitch 5 (5.11) a longer pitch climbing the next wide hands and fists splitter, a burly and radical pitch, with a thoughtful finish stepping left to a descent stance back in the dihedral system.
Pitch 6 (5.11-) was mine, and I must admit: I wanted out. I headed up a short ways attempting to complete the direct line but the flaring crack and kitty litter was too intimidating. I veered sharp right, foot-traversing, then climbing up a sketchy layback flake. Mind the ridiculous rope drag, step hard right again and up onto moderate terrain. Gain the ridge and moderate blocks to the summit of Snowpatch.
publications.americanalpine…
Pitch 2 (5.8) a long pitch approaches the dihedral on left via wandery ledges, blocks, and flowers. Stop beneath a gleaming right-facing corner, unfortunately slammed shut.
Pitch 3 (5.12R) Look slightly right from below the blank corner. Climb over 15 feet reaching an overlap with some flakey holds, you are standing on a pillar. It is a bit spicy but provides the just-good-enough edge or two, finishing with a granite hueco)!
Pitch 4 (5.10) heads up a beautiful left-facing, widening hand crack that parallels the original dihedral system. Good climbing, belay at a descent stance.
Pitch 5 (5.11) a longer pitch climbing the next wide hands and fists splitter, a burly and radical pitch, with a thoughtful finish stepping left to a descent stance back in the dihedral system.
Pitch 6 (5.11-) was mine, and I must admit: I wanted out. I headed up a short ways attempting to complete the direct line but the flaring crack and kitty litter was too intimidating. I veered sharp right, foot-traversing, then climbing up a sketchy layback flake. Mind the ridiculous rope drag, step hard right again and up onto moderate terrain. Gain the ridge and moderate blocks to the summit of Snowpatch.
publications.americanalpine…
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