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Routes in Snowpatch Spire
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Becky/Mather (Free) 5.12- (or 5.11+ C1 for 4m) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sendero Norte T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2 |
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Welcome to the Machine T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Hans Kraus and Jim Mc Carthy, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 5,470 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
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HISTORY
Kraus and McCarthy were the best climbers from the 'Gunks when they did the west face of Snowpatch Spire. Originally rated 5.8, don't believe it. It was a test-piece back in the day.
APPROACH ROUTES
There is a map in the photo gallery for Kraus-McCarthy approach beta. The standard approach is via Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.
If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the Pigeon-Snowpatch Rappels might be a new way to approach the West Face routes. I have not yet found a report of this being done but did see a trip report that estimated a difficulty of 5.6.
Go here for both current and historical condition reports by Canadian guides: acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp
DESCENT
Most climbers experience this route vicariously, from rappel. Kraus-McCarthy is the standard way down for most parties after climbing the Weisser/Southeast Corner route. Teams ascending Kraus-McCarthy can expect to be outnumbered by those descending. Morning shade is a drag on alpine rock, but this route is worth it.
Since I last did this route, bolt & chain rappel anchors have been installed at thirty meter intervals. Four 60 meter rappels or eight 30 meter rappels. Since there are plenty of safe bolt stations, it will be much easier to work with others on the route.
Kraus and McCarthy were the best climbers from the 'Gunks when they did the west face of Snowpatch Spire. Originally rated 5.8, don't believe it. It was a test-piece back in the day.
APPROACH ROUTES
There is a map in the photo gallery for Kraus-McCarthy approach beta. The standard approach is via Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.
If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the Pigeon-Snowpatch Rappels might be a new way to approach the West Face routes. I have not yet found a report of this being done but did see a trip report that estimated a difficulty of 5.6.
Go here for both current and historical condition reports by Canadian guides: acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp
DESCENT
Most climbers experience this route vicariously, from rappel. Kraus-McCarthy is the standard way down for most parties after climbing the Weisser/Southeast Corner route. Teams ascending Kraus-McCarthy can expect to be outnumbered by those descending. Morning shade is a drag on alpine rock, but this route is worth it.
Since I last did this route, bolt & chain rappel anchors have been installed at thirty meter intervals. Four 60 meter rappels or eight 30 meter rappels. Since there are plenty of safe bolt stations, it will be much easier to work with others on the route.
.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The first hard pitch starts following a ramp left up to a 5.8 roof.
The second hard pitch follows ramp-like feature back right, past a lone bolt rap anchor. It is possible to belay here, on the right side of the gully, before the line moves back left.
Or try to stretch this pitch up left on sloping 5.7 ends at a belay in a left facing and leaning corner.
The next pitch is a rounded 5.8 lieback. sometime verglass or wetness can make getting to the 5.8 more serious. Small ledge to belay.
The next pitch starts rightward and ends after a traverse left, easier than 5.8 if dry. The belay should be a small stance with bolt anchors.
Seems like the last 20 feet the the main crack are by far the crux, 5.9+ at least. This is where I'd like to try a big cam (#6). There is a dodge right, to a thin crack at least 5.10. Harder, and not great for the second.
DESCENT
Most climbers experience this route vicariously, from rappel. Kraus-McCarthy is the standard way down for most parties after climbing the Weisser/Southeast Corner route.
Bolt & chain rappel anchors have been installed at thirty meter intervals. Four 60 meter rappels or eight 30 meter rappels. Mountain Project contributor Hans warns us in the Surf's Up route description that some of the single raps barley reach so use knots.
EQUIPMENT
I'm bringing the #6 cam next time! Bring lots of slings too, the route wanders. Otherwise the rack is the usual for a 240 meter 5th class climb on alpine granite.
KRAUS-McCARTHY ORIGINAL RAPPEL ANCHORS
The old summit anchor was a 20 kilogram flake, about 80 centimeters in length, tied off and laid across the top of the Kraus-McCarthy chimney, where it splits the flat summit ledge. Before weighting the very directional and portable anchor, climbers would have to squeeze down into the chimney. Once under the sketchy flake and on rappel, the security of the chimney was replaced with 240 meters of exposure. The next anchor was a tied off pancake flake, somehow wedged between the walls of a 90 degree corner, even more uncertain than the summit anchor.
The first hard pitch starts following a ramp left up to a 5.8 roof.
The second hard pitch follows ramp-like feature back right, past a lone bolt rap anchor. It is possible to belay here, on the right side of the gully, before the line moves back left.
Or try to stretch this pitch up left on sloping 5.7 ends at a belay in a left facing and leaning corner.
The next pitch is a rounded 5.8 lieback. sometime verglass or wetness can make getting to the 5.8 more serious. Small ledge to belay.
The next pitch starts rightward and ends after a traverse left, easier than 5.8 if dry. The belay should be a small stance with bolt anchors.
Seems like the last 20 feet the the main crack are by far the crux, 5.9+ at least. This is where I'd like to try a big cam (#6). There is a dodge right, to a thin crack at least 5.10. Harder, and not great for the second.
DESCENT
Most climbers experience this route vicariously, from rappel. Kraus-McCarthy is the standard way down for most parties after climbing the Weisser/Southeast Corner route.
Bolt & chain rappel anchors have been installed at thirty meter intervals. Four 60 meter rappels or eight 30 meter rappels. Mountain Project contributor Hans warns us in the Surf's Up route description that some of the single raps barley reach so use knots.
EQUIPMENT
I'm bringing the #6 cam next time! Bring lots of slings too, the route wanders. Otherwise the rack is the usual for a 240 meter 5th class climb on alpine granite.
KRAUS-McCARTHY ORIGINAL RAPPEL ANCHORS
The old summit anchor was a 20 kilogram flake, about 80 centimeters in length, tied off and laid across the top of the Kraus-McCarthy chimney, where it splits the flat summit ledge. Before weighting the very directional and portable anchor, climbers would have to squeeze down into the chimney. Once under the sketchy flake and on rappel, the security of the chimney was replaced with 240 meters of exposure. The next anchor was a tied off pancake flake, somehow wedged between the walls of a 90 degree corner, even more uncertain than the summit anchor.
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