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Routes in Snowpatch Spire

Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2
Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2000 ft, 17 pitches, Grade V
FA: Ted Davies, Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe, July 1971
Page Views: 5,996 total, 71/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 25, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

INTRODUCTION

I met Ted Davies in Yosemite in 1975. He had just climbed the Salathe Wall on El Cap. His report was very positive about the quality of this line. If he and his buds thought it was similar to the Steck-Salalthe, we can believe it. Ted Davies Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe were among the top alpine climbers in British Colombia during the early seventies.

Location

Everyone sees it while ascending the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, but no one does it. Will anyone out there ever admit to taking this beauty all the way to the true summit? Besides the first ascent, I wonder how many successful ascents have even made to the lower North Summit? Bugaboo Rock, 1990, admits to uncertainty about the upper pitches,

Protection

The first ascent party was very happy to discover small cracks on the inner walls of the chimney.

Photos

michael faith
Bellingham, WA
michael faith   Bellingham, WA
Does anyone have any beta about this route? What earns the C1 rating? Descent? Is the route sustained 5.9/5.10? Nov 13, 2012
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I climbed it to the top of the namesake wide crack in the 80's, but we then rapped off since we had been to the N summit the day before. Does it really traverse left to the NE face as shown in the photo? I don't remember that. I thought maybe straight up the ridge? May 29, 2012
hanshan
Canada Mofuga
hanshan   Canada Mofuga
This is definitely an old school 5.9 and is more like runout 5.10 by any definition. Wild and wide climbing though. Aug 30, 2011