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Bugaboo Corner
5.9 C1,
Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 17 pitches, Grade V,
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
FA: Ted Davies, Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe, July 1971
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Columbia-Shushwap
> Bugaboos
> Snowpatch Spire
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
INTRODUCTION
I met Ted Davies in Yosemite in 1975. He had just climbed the Salathe Wall on El Cap. His report was very positive about the quality of this line. If he and his buds thought it was similar to the Steck-Salalthe, we can believe it. Ted Davies Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe were among the top alpine climbers in British Colombia during the early seventies.
Location
Everyone sees it while ascending the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, but no one does it. Will anyone out there ever admit to taking this beauty all the way to the true summit? Besides the first ascent, I wonder how many successful ascents have even made to the lower North Summit? Bugaboo Rock, 1990, admits to uncertainty about the upper pitches,
Protection
The first ascent party was very happy to discover small cracks on the inner walls of the chimney.
![Bugaboo Corner on Snowpatch Spire<br>
Photo by MP contributor Avery Nelson<br>
<br>
Green Squares- Bugaboo Corner to North Summit <br>
Green dots - The hidden chimney passage to the east face.<br>
Blue - Sunshine Wall]()
[Hide Photo] Bugaboo Corner on Snowpatch Spire Photo by MP contributor Avery Nelson Green Squares- Bugaboo Corner to North Summit Green dots - The hidden chimney passage to the east face. Blue - Sunshine…
![Bugaboo Corner Map<br>
contour interval: 100 feet<br>
<br>
Red - Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col<br>
Blue - Bugaboo Corner to North Summit<br>
Yellow - Becky-Greenwood/Super Direct Rappels<br>]()
[Hide Photo] Bugaboo Corner Map contour interval: 100 feet Red - Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col Blue - Bugaboo Corner to North Summit Yellow - Becky-Greenwood/Super Direct Rappels
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