Type: Trad, Alpine, 1900 ft (576 m), 14 pitches
FA: FA Jon Walsh, Chris Brazeau; FFA Will Stanhope, Jason Kruk 2009
Page Views: 4,922 total · 71/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Aug 8, 2018
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Summarized from FA Blog info.

P1: Left-facing flake to a ledge, then up a dark slot to a small roof. Belay on right. (5.10b, 20-30m)

P2: Head left from belay and up a left-leaning face crack to a ledge. (5.12c/d or 5.11 C1, 30m)

P3: Continue up widening crack. Pass an old piton belay and finish heading left past a bolt to a belay under a splitter in a left-facing corner. (5.11c/d, 45m)

P4: Ascend the splitter corner crack ranging from hand to finger sizes to a belay out left near the top of a pillar. (5.10d, 55m)

P5: Follow a tips crack to face moves, passing two bolts to a stance and anchor. Takes nuts and small micro-finger sized cams. (5.11b, 20m)

P6: Climb small edges to bouldry roof moves, 8 bolts. (5.12c or 5.11b A0, 30m)

P7: Climb a hand crack to an overhang. Head left and follow hand and finger cracks near an arete. (5.10c, 30m)

P8: Head up an open book corner past a tips crux, then gain a right-facing corner to the belay. Be prepared to simul. There is a 2-pitch 5.10+ variation described in FA Blog beta. (5.11a, 63m)

P9: Head left of the belay and follow a left-facing golden corner, then left again to a shallow left-facing corner crack to a fixed lost arrow. Continue up a few feet and step left to another left-facing corner and a belay. (5.11a, 15m)

P10: Climb run-out 5.9 lay-backing up a corner and flake for 30 meters, then head right on face holds to a left-facing corner leading to a belay ledge. (5.10d, 55m)

P11: Follow a fingery right-facing corner to a ledge and easy moves out right, then a face crack to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ramp leading left to a belay. (5.11a, 60m)

P12: Head left to an overhanging corner/slot and a wide corner crack above. Then, traverse right for 10 meters to belay on a large, semi-hanging boulder. (5.11a, 60m)

P13: Climb directly up a chimney or head right and over broken ground leading back left. Belay on the left in 4th class. (5.7, 30m)

P14: Scramble to north summit. (5.0, 60m+)

Rappel notes:
P9: Rappel to midway anchor of P8.
P8: Caution, rope stretcher!
P7: Best as 30M rap. Rope can get stuck in crack.

Detailed Topo and description are on the FA Blog.

Location Suggest change

Center of East Face of Snowpatch Spire. 

Protection Suggest change

Doubles #00 - #3 Camalot, Singles #000 & #4, nuts, 12 draws. Two 60m ropes to rap.

Photos

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