Type: Trad, Alpine, 1900 ft (576 m), 14 pitches
FA: FA Jon Walsh, Chris Brazeau; FFA Will Stanhope, Jason Kruk 2009
Page Views: 2,546 total · 85/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Aug 8, 2018
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Summarized from FA Blog info.

P1: Left-facing flake to a ledge, then up a dark slot to a small roof. Belay on right. (5.10b, 20-30m)

P2: Head left from belay and up a left-leaning face crack to a ledge. (5.12c/d or 5.11 C1, 30m)

P3: Continue up widening crack. Pass an old piton belay and finish heading left past a bolt to a belay under a splitter in a left-facing corner. (5.11c/d, 45m)

P4: Ascend the splitter corner crack ranging from hand to finger sizes to a belay out left near the top of a pillar. (5.10d, 55m)

P5: Follow a tips crack to face moves, passing two bolts to a stance and anchor. Takes nuts and small micro-finger sized cams. (5.11b, 20m)

P6: Climb small edges to bouldry roof moves, 8 bolts. (5.12c or 5.11b A0, 30m)

P7: Climb a hand crack to an overhang. Head left and follow hand and finger cracks near an arete. (5.10c, 30m)

P8: Head up an open book corner past a tips crux, then gain a right-facing corner to the belay. Be prepared to simul. There is a 2-pitch 5.10+ variation described in FA Blog beta. (5.11a, 63m)

P9: Head left of the belay and follow a left-facing golden corner, then left again to a shallow left-facing corner crack to a fixed lost arrow. Continue up a few feet and step left to another left-facing corner and a belay. (5.11a, 15m)

P10: Climb run-out 5.9 lay-backing up a corner and flake for 30 meters, then head right on face holds to a left-facing corner leading to a belay ledge. (5.10d, 55m)

P11: Follow a fingery right-facing corner to a ledge and easy moves out right, then a face crack to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ramp leading left to a belay. (5.11a, 60m)

P12: Head left to an overhanging corner/slot and a wide corner crack above. Then, traverse right for 10 meters to belay on a large, semi-hanging boulder. (5.11a, 60m)

P13: Climb directly up a chimney or head right and over broken ground leading back left. Belay on the left in 4th class. (5.7, 30m)

P14: Scramble to north summit. (5.0, 60m+)

Rappel notes:
P9: Rappel to midway anchor of P8.
P8: Caution, rope stretcher!
P7: Best as 30M rap. Rope can get stuck in crack.

Detailed Topo and description are on the FA Blog.

Location

Center of East Face of Snowpatch Spire. 

Protection

Doubles #00 - #3 Camalot, Singles #000 & #4, nuts, 12 draws. Two 60m ropes to rap.

Photos