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> Bugaboos
> Snowpatch Spire
Sendero Norte
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 8
votes
Routes in Snowpatch Spire
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Becky/Mather (Free) 5.12- (or 5.11+ C1 for 4m) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sendero Norte T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2 |
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Welcome to the Machine T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1900 ft (576 m), 14 pitches |
| FA: | FA Jon Walsh, Chris Brazeau; FFA Will Stanhope, Jason Kruk 2009 |
| Page Views: | 5,092 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Petty on Aug 8, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
Summarized from FA Blog info.
P1: Left-facing flake to a ledge, then up a dark slot to a small roof. Belay on right. (5.10b, 20-30m)
P2: Head left from belay and up a left-leaning face crack to a ledge. (5.12c/d or 5.11 C1, 30m)
P3: Continue up widening crack. Pass an old piton belay and finish heading left past a bolt to a belay under a splitter in a left-facing corner. (5.11c/d, 45m)
P4: Ascend the splitter corner crack ranging from hand to finger sizes to a belay out left near the top of a pillar. (5.10d, 55m)
P5: Follow a tips crack to face moves, passing two bolts to a stance and anchor. Takes nuts and small micro-finger sized cams. (5.11b, 20m)
P6: Climb small edges to bouldry roof moves, 8 bolts. (5.12c or 5.11b A0, 30m)
P7: Climb a hand crack to an overhang. Head left and follow hand and finger cracks near an arete. (5.10c, 30m)
P8: Head up an open book corner past a tips crux, then gain a right-facing corner to the belay. Be prepared to simul. There is a 2-pitch 5.10+ variation described in FA Blog beta. (5.11a, 63m)
P9: Head left of the belay and follow a left-facing golden corner, then left again to a shallow left-facing corner crack to a fixed lost arrow. Continue up a few feet and step left to another left-facing corner and a belay. (5.11a, 15m)
P10: Climb run-out 5.9 lay-backing up a corner and flake for 30 meters, then head right on face holds to a left-facing corner leading to a belay ledge. (5.10d, 55m)
P11: Follow a fingery right-facing corner to a ledge and easy moves out right, then a face crack to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ramp leading left to a belay. (5.11a, 60m)
P12: Head left to an overhanging corner/slot and a wide corner crack above. Then, traverse right for 10 meters to belay on a large, semi-hanging boulder. (5.11a, 60m)
P13: Climb directly up a chimney or head right and over broken ground leading back left. Belay on the left in 4th class. (5.7, 30m)
P14: Scramble to north summit. (5.0, 60m+)
Rappel notes:
P9: Rappel to midway anchor of P8.
P8: Caution, rope stretcher!
P7: Best as 30M rap. Rope can get stuck in crack.
Detailed Topo and description are on the FA Blog.
P1: Left-facing flake to a ledge, then up a dark slot to a small roof. Belay on right. (5.10b, 20-30m)
P2: Head left from belay and up a left-leaning face crack to a ledge. (5.12c/d or 5.11 C1, 30m)
P3: Continue up widening crack. Pass an old piton belay and finish heading left past a bolt to a belay under a splitter in a left-facing corner. (5.11c/d, 45m)
P4: Ascend the splitter corner crack ranging from hand to finger sizes to a belay out left near the top of a pillar. (5.10d, 55m)
P5: Follow a tips crack to face moves, passing two bolts to a stance and anchor. Takes nuts and small micro-finger sized cams. (5.11b, 20m)
P6: Climb small edges to bouldry roof moves, 8 bolts. (5.12c or 5.11b A0, 30m)
P7: Climb a hand crack to an overhang. Head left and follow hand and finger cracks near an arete. (5.10c, 30m)
P8: Head up an open book corner past a tips crux, then gain a right-facing corner to the belay. Be prepared to simul. There is a 2-pitch 5.10+ variation described in FA Blog beta. (5.11a, 63m)
P9: Head left of the belay and follow a left-facing golden corner, then left again to a shallow left-facing corner crack to a fixed lost arrow. Continue up a few feet and step left to another left-facing corner and a belay. (5.11a, 15m)
P10: Climb run-out 5.9 lay-backing up a corner and flake for 30 meters, then head right on face holds to a left-facing corner leading to a belay ledge. (5.10d, 55m)
P11: Follow a fingery right-facing corner to a ledge and easy moves out right, then a face crack to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ramp leading left to a belay. (5.11a, 60m)
P12: Head left to an overhanging corner/slot and a wide corner crack above. Then, traverse right for 10 meters to belay on a large, semi-hanging boulder. (5.11a, 60m)
P13: Climb directly up a chimney or head right and over broken ground leading back left. Belay on the left in 4th class. (5.7, 30m)
P14: Scramble to north summit. (5.0, 60m+)
Rappel notes:
P9: Rappel to midway anchor of P8.
P8: Caution, rope stretcher!
P7: Best as 30M rap. Rope can get stuck in crack.
Detailed Topo and description are on the FA Blog.
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