All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire
Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
Routes in Snowpatch Spire
|Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2|
|Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Nils & R.M Preshaw, 1992|
|Page Views:||4,169 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||harihari on Jul 30, 2010|
DescriptionA superb and varied trad line with bolted rappels on the West Face of Snowpatch Spire. I am putting this on here because
(a) it needs more traffic
(b) we cleaned P2 and it's awesome now
(c) the guide is vague on gear
(d) I have slightly better pitch beta, which is as follows:
P1 20m 5.9 corner to gear belay where crack divides. You can see the final rap station to climber's right across from you, under a small roof-- pins and slings.
P2 55m 10c lieback with good feet and lots of gear. Gear belay atop corner where things ease off. This pitch was cleaned in July 2010.
P3 20m 5.8 Go up about 8m, go right past one 5.8 move, and up to a bolted belay (rap station) which is about 5m left of the corner.
P4 5.6 ~45m Go up the broken gully past another rap station until you find a steeper block that looks like it could be liebacked. Belay under this on gear.
P5 5.8 50m Pass the lieback block, and fire up the stembox in a long pitch until you get to a sling belay off a horn at the base of the huge white wall. Very cool pitch.
P6 5.10c 50m Traverse the finger-ledge slightly up and right in superb position past a rap station (clip for pro), clip an ancient bolt, then fire right, up the arete/crack and back left to another rap station where you belay.
P7 5.10+ 50m Traverse down 10m left, then head up the awesome right-facing corner, liebacking, stemming and body-jamming, exiting either up and left or up and right to fixed belays. Many long slings. This pitch has some burly moves but there is tons of good gear in all sizes.