Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.2 from 316
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
> g. V3 - Middle Earth
Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.
At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.
P1 (5.7, 80'): Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor
P2 (5.1, 120'): This pitch is easy but fun. There is a right facing corner system above the bolted anchor. Follow this system straight up to the GT Ledge. It is a long pitch. At some point in the middle you naturally step to the right of the corner. There is some hollow rock here, easily avoided, and then you step back left and continue. I also remember having to push past a bush at some point but overall the pitch is clean enough and the rock is good. Just before the GT Ledge the rock is cleaner if you move left and up to the ledge.
P3 ( 5.8,
30'): A short pitch with an entertaining roof. There is a blocky corner system to your left which arches up to a roof. Move just a few steps to your left and head up the face, meeting the corner system just a couple of feet below the roof. There is good gear at the top of the corner and in a downward-facing slot in the underside of the ceiling. Pull over the roof just to the left of this slot-- as soon as you pull into the roof there is another horizontal for gear and jugs to get you over. Once you are over the roof, the pitch is done. Combining pitches two and three is reasonable and the drag was nonexistent until I got over the roof-- and then it was all over and done anyway.
Descent: From the top, you'll need to do the easy scramble up the slab to the true top of the cliff and then go north to the Arrow rap line, where there's an easy step-down just past the bolts. Or you can go south to the Madame G rappel, where you need to know landmarks, as you'll need to descend a bit to the bolts at the front of the buttress.
Standard Rack; the route is very well protected.