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5.6 PG13, Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.1 from 34 votes
FA: Hans Krauss, Susanne Simon 1944
New York > Gunks > Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


P1: (5.6) Climb up the right-facing broken corner to the ledge, then climb up a crack with a small tree (V1). Continue on the easier ground above the tree, make a balancey move up a headwall (crux), and then climb up to the GT ledge. This pitch is a nice and well-protected outing, and you can traverse to the last pitches of routes between Snake and Arrow.

P2: (5.7) Climb a huge right-facing corner, pass a bush, choke off grass and a big tree. Continue up the crack (hand to fist jam at the bottom, chicken wing at the top) to the ledge with rap slings.

V1 5.8 G FA: Joe Bridges, Dick Williams, 1987
From the Snake crack move out left and climb difficult looking finger-crack through an overhanging bulge.

It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.


Begins 40 ft right of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct, half way up the slope towards Red Pillar.


Standard rack, big cams (BD #3-5) for the second pitch

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to the tree.
[Hide Photo] Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to the tree.
Snake P1
[Hide Photo] Snake P1
Gail on Snake
[Hide Photo] Gail on Snake
How to locate the start...
[Hide Photo] How to locate the start...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Artem Lebedev
Santa Monica, CA
[Hide Comment] Although the guidebooks do not recommend the second pitch, I found it very interesting and challenging. Rare example of non-trivial crack in Gunks. Admittedly, it is wet and dirty. Oct 6, 2008
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] The headwall on P1 is a committing fingercrack move - stiff for the grade if you are short. Bring smaller stoppers to backup the old pin (I used a BD #2). I agree that P2 could be interesting, but it's dirty, grassy and the bush is about to fall off any minute. There is no pro till the the tree ledge some 50ft up (I didn't bring any big cams for this). The OW on top looked fun, but the face is covered in moss, so I backed off. Funny thing, I saw a black snake at the start of the climb as well! Jun 6, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] P1 is a lot of fun. Easy peasy climbing leads to a mellow crux, back to easy peasy. Great for a newb follower. Jun 16, 2012
Jersey City, NJ
[Hide Comment] This route is easy to protect on the first pitch and has much better climbing than appears likely from the ground. I agree this would be a superb route for a new 5.6 leader. Also, its deceptively unappealing start means it's more likely to be available.

We finished on what I believe was the 3rd pitch of Steep Hiking, which the Williams guide puts at 5.6 and I'd have rated 5.7 or 5.8 (but I haven't climbed a lot whole lot of slab in the past decade so maybe it was just me.) It was the relatively lichen-free strip about 15 feet over from the dirty corner where Snake finishes. A bit runout between stellar gear placements. Sep 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] I thought this climb was pretty awesome. Make sure you go left at the tree and don't place anything to the right after you pass it. Felt like I was dragging a Volkswagen up with me through the crux. Also, people, keep checking those pins! I clipped one on this route only to have it pull out when I gave the draw a little tug. Nov 1, 2013
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Agree with all prev. comments. P2 is pretty stiff for the grade; lots of crumbly lichen, moss, dirt, sod, dead branches. A bit of cleaning with your nut tool will expose some usable cracks. There is a rapp station on a tree 10 ft. left of the top. Jun 23, 2014