Elevation: 809 ft
GPS: 43.803, -71.836 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 141,353 total · 845/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 16, 2006 with improvements by Phil Keffer
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Main Cliff is the tallest wall at Rumney and also home to some of the best routes. Whereas most of the other cliffs at Rumney are composed of schist, Main Cliff is distinguished by a band of quartzite stretching across it's middle. This rock has many of the characteristics of the best sandstone: fine grained, angular, and bullet hard.

Most climbs on the Main Cliff proper ascend distinct corners and aretes, and the climbing feels a bit more "trad" than at other cliffs. Though the routes can be long and pumpy, the different rock presents various technical challenges. Insecure stems, burly laybacks, and technical smearing can be found on almost all of the routes on the center of the cliff. Various outlying walls also comprise the Main Cliff area.

Main Cliff is large and complex. Ward Smith's guidebook is de rigueur for navigating this area.

It was brought to my attention that the rockfall warning on the Main Cliff Right description could do well here as well.
ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. Routes such as Rock Du Jours, Gold digger and others in that vicinity are of greatest concern.

Getting There

From the second parkinglot, walk uphill into the woods. Follow the sign to Main Cliff. The large wall you come to is Main Cliff Center. Outlying areas to left and to the right.*Most of the Main Cliff is seasonally closed for peregrine nesting, usually April through July. Occasionally the cliff is reopened early if the birds nest elsewhere or the eggs don't hatch. Look for blaze-orange signs on the kiosk in the parking lot.

2019 signs put up on 4/22/19. Only upper half of main cliff is closed. All first pitchers are open.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 239
Gold Digger
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 179
Rock Du Jours Direct
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 40
Space Shuttle
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 633
Underdog
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 324
Sweet Polly Purebred
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 338
Millenium Falcon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 165
Goldbug
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 236
Know Ethics
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 65
Little Big Man
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 67
Gunboat Diplomacy
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 53
Ali Babbler
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 141
Peanut Man
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 48
Rap Echo
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 34
Beat Junkie
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 22
Thin Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gold Digger
 239
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rock Du Jours Direct
 179
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Space Shuttle
 40
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Underdog
 633
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sweet Polly Purebred
 324
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Millenium Falcon
 338
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Goldbug
 165
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Know Ethics
 236
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Little Big Man
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gunboat Diplomacy
 67
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ali Babbler
 53
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Peanut Man
 141
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rap Echo
 48
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Beat Junkie
 34
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Thin Man
 22
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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