Whip Tide climbs up the central inside corner of the cliff. However, this corner is guarded by a bouldery overhang at the bottom and a giant roof at the top. The pump crux, topping out, has given many a climber trouble, but grabbing the chains is a definite faux pas.
Climb up the ladder to the ledge. Whip Tide is the farthest left route starting off the ledge. Stems and the sneaky use of an undercling allow establishment in the corner. From here, relatively moderate, but spicy stemming leads to the roof. Fear not, as the roof holds are some of the biggest in Rumney. Traverse right across the roof and top out.
Originally graded 5.12c, the crux of the route involved a very powerful cross through from a gaston in order to enter the corner. The newer undercling beta may have taken the sting out of the grade.
Try as I might, I couldn't seem to make that lower crux getting into the corner feel any easier than a legit V5 (12c)... guess I needed someone to show me the sneaky undercling beta. I found this route way harder than Technosurfing.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 15, 2010 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-E6 6b
perhaps ill get some video some day.... till then watch people do it and steal beta... it really does get easier the more you figure it out...
Watched a guy free solo this today...made it look like 5.6. Impressive as hell.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Nov 8, 2010 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-E6 6b
Timmy Deroehn? Man, I wish he would stop doing that. It is impressive how he has those routes wired, but I would hate to see or hear that he splattered. The odds aren't good if you keep doing that, no matter how good you are. Frankly, it always seems a little odd when people solo with others around.
I don't think that was his last name...I could be wrong. It was only my partner and I there....so it wasn't crowded...and it was clear that he had no intention of trying to impress anyone. In fact, when his friends showed up, he put on his harness.
I think another factor in how this climb feels different for different people is that I think the crux favors people with shorter legs - you just fit into the dihedral better (I know, I'm waiting to hear the dissenting voices). I'd never climbed v4 outside when I sent this climb (still haven't sent any v4s as a matter of fact), and although it took a lot of effort to send it, i was able to figure out a good sequence in the end.
I think it's far more important in the crux to look at your feet as well, the undercling is key but it won't do any good if you don't put your feet right. before i sent the climb i had it exactly figured out where to put my feet with numerous different foot switches in the short 20 foot crux. you just have to figure out a way to use the opposition forces in the dihedral to your advantage.
kayte knower had the best beta for the climb, it really helped me out so if you see her maybe ask her?