Tyson Arp > Comments

Oct 21, 2024 Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > E Stronghold > Lost Canyon Area > Polychrome Dome Somewhat odd feature of this crag was rappel anchors featuring aluminum carabiners instead of one of many more durable solutions. Got the job done but would benefit from an upgrade. ● FWIW, I wasn't suggesting this was unsafe, just unusual compared to countless anchors I've encountered else… View Comment
Oct 20, 2024 Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > E Stronghold > Lost Canyon Area > Polychrome Dome Unknown 5.8 ● Some long runouts on easy terrain between bolts. Protection can be supplemented with medium cams in the ho… View Comment
Jun 16, 2022 S Idaho > City of Rocks > Drilling Fields > Drilling Fields - Los… City Slicker 5.10a ● Makes sense that a City Slicker has never seen an actual chicken's head. Chicken Head is a very generous d… View Comment
Mar 23, 2020 Grand Teton NP > Mt Moran > CMC Route (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a) Looking down through the Horns and the Falling Ice Glacier from atop the Black Dike. ● Is that Scrat from the Ice Age movies? View Comment
Nov 6, 2018 Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Finger Rock Canyon > Finger Rock > Finger Rock (Standard… (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b) fisheye foto from finger-tip, featuring flat stanley. ● Best Flat Stanley pic ever! View Comment
Oct 28, 2011 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower > N Chimney (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a) The bolt protecting the offwidth on P2. Photo shot on 10/24/11. ● I think you need some air quotes around "protecting". View Comment
Aug 10, 2010 Custer SP > Tenpins/Switchb… > Reunion Rock > Loss of Sensation (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a) Loss of Sensation. Finishing traverse to the anchors. Ted Kryzer. August '10. ● Awesome shot! Has me longing for Blackhills Granite! View Comment
Nov 26, 2009 Blue Mounds SP… > N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (E… Kanaranzi Right 5.9+ ● --Spoiler Alert-- The secret hold is somewhere partway up the cliff. That is to say, you have to climb up… View Comment
May 12, 2009 Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Outlets > Inner Outlet > Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b) The horn ● It's certainly A horn, just not the one to rappel off. Anyway it looks like it's being used as protection… View Comment
Dec 10, 2008 Southeast Utah > … > State Highway 313 > Hell Roaring Ca… > Witch > Midnight Rider (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a) Don't ask. ● Well??? View Comment
Jan 21, 2008 CO Ice & Mixed > Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Uncompahgre Gor… > S Park Cartman's Mom WI4+ ● Indeed, perhaps I misread. Thanks for setting me straight! View Comment
Oct 8, 2007 Custer SP > Picket Fence > Sickle Conn Route 5.4 PG13 ● Nice addition, Joel! Angela and I've been wanting to hop on this one for a while but just never quite get… View Comment
Aug 17, 2007 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Castle Valley The Priest, the Rectory, and Castleton Tower. ● Awesome shot, Brad!!! View Comment
Jul 26, 2007 Custer SP > Tenpins/Switchb… > Tent Peg > Tent Peg (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) Me on the final section. ● Nice shot, Joel! There ain't nothin' like pinchin' crystals in the needles! View Comment
Jun 15, 2007 Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Valley Massif Sunny Day 5.5 ● Felt like more work than your usual 5.5, but then again it's in Vedauwoo! The crack gets wide before it's… View Comment
Jun 15, 2007 Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Valley Massif Powder Puff 5.4 ● Definitely do the Corbel Exit if you can talk yourself into it! It's only one move, but boy is it fun. If… View Comment
Jun 9, 2007 Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Spire Three > International Chimney (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R) The view off internationals rappel last climber pull joining knots down to prevent a hang up when pulling ropes. best route ever ● Nice perspective on Station Thirteen! Shows off the east chimney very well. View Comment
May 17, 2007 Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Chopping Block > Meat Counter Goat Skin 5.7 ● Ahh, my first climb in the Black Hills... I agree, it kinda sucks. It took my wife and I nearly three hou… View Comment
Apr 12, 2007 Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Station 13 > E Chimney (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13) Will Becker starting his way up into the intimidating Conn Cavity on Station Thirteen ● I hadn't considered the use of a large cam for the second pitch. I probably just didn't have one as I usua… View Comment
Apr 11, 2007 Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Station 13 East Chimney 5.7 PG13 ● You'll find a few more photos of the route here. teamarp.com/South%20Dakota/… View Comment
Apr 11, 2007 Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Spire Three International Chimney 5.7 R ● When I climbed this route, I did the traditional 5.6 second pitch that starts from the southern end of the… View Comment
Apr 11, 2007 Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Spire Four Spire Four 5.4 ● A big Thank You to whomever replaced the old button heads on the rappel route! It was a nice improvement t… View Comment
Mar 29, 2007 Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Spire Two > Jan & Jane Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13) very rough beta shot of route, spot for anchors at P1 and the 2nd pitch. Thanks to whoever posted the original beta photo. I will get more pics up at a later date ● Glad you could put my photo to good use! Looks like a fun route. View Comment
Mar 12, 2007 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Tower of Babel Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 C2+ ● I've uploaded a topo of this route based on photos I took a year ago when my wife and I climbed this route.… View Comment
Mar 8, 2007 Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Angel's Landing Prodigal Sun 5.8 C2 ● I can't answer all your questions, Nick, but it seems like linking the pitches as you describe should work.… View Comment
Mar 8, 2007 Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 9. Chimney Buttress X 5.8 ● By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Do… View Comment
Feb 22, 2007 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Tower of Babel > Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+) Close up of the upper half of the third pitch (as described above). ● The day after we climbed Zenyatta we walked a little way up the wash towards the Gossips to shoot a series… View Comment
Feb 19, 2007 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Tower of Babel Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 C2+ ● Glad to hear that I wasn't just losing it up there! Take a look and see what you think. I know there is a… View Comment
Feb 19, 2007 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Tower of Babel Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 C2+ ● Sam, perhaps you and I are talking about different pitches--or I had some serious blinders on when I climbe… View Comment
Feb 19, 2007 Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Tower of Babel Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 C2+ ● My wife and I climbed Zenyatta hammerless in March 2006 and found the climb to be in pretty sorry condition… View Comment
Feb 16, 2007 Devils Tower > Durrance Approach Durrance 5.7+ ● I've got a trip report and a bunch of photos from Durrance teamarp.com/Wyoming/devils-… on my website. View Comment
Feb 16, 2007 Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 9. Chimney Buttress X 5.8 ● I think this is a little harder than 5.7. I noticed last time I lead it that the footholds are much more p… View Comment
Feb 16, 2007 Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 8. Everday Buttress Debauchery 5.8+ ● A fun devious route--keeps you on your toes the whole way! View Comment
Feb 16, 2007 Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 7. Sunday Buttress Cactus Capers 5.10 ● I think 10b/c is a little generous for this climb! It was originally rated 5.9 and I believe that feels pr… View Comment
Feb 16, 2007 Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 5. Saturday Buttress Ivy Right 5.5 ● Great beginner lead--lots of restful stances and lots of placement options. Don't forget your tricams--the… View Comment
Feb 16, 2007 Blue Mounds SP… > N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (E… Crazy Crack 5.7 ● Definitely one of the more protectable climbs in the area. Makes a good lead. View Comment

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Tyson Arp > Comments

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