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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Crack, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Right TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purgatory T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway To Hell TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,592 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

A fun route on either lead or top rope. Follow the crack up, traverse left at a small roof/ledge, and continue to the top. The climb tops out at a small ledge 3 feet below the true top. This is a great place to sit while you belay your second.

  • RCM&W #31, p.39.

Location

This is the furthest left crack on this face.

Descent/TR setup: via the third class chimney on Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).

Protection

Nuts, hexes, cams, tri-cams. I didn't use anything bigger than hand/fist sized. Standard top rope setup

Photos

Pete Hunt  
 
Multiple 2" to 3" cams very helpful on lead. Jan 6, 2012
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
Jeff J.   Sioux Falls, SD
Leading up straight over the small roof and then traversing left is a great alternate ending and is a bit harder Oct 23, 2011
Tyson S Arp  
 
Definitely one of the more protectable climbs in the area. Makes a good lead. Feb 16, 2007