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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Crack, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Right TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purgatory T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway To Hell TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,664 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

A fun route on either lead or top rope. Follow the crack up, traverse left at a small roof/ledge, and continue to the top. The climb tops out at a small ledge 3 feet below the true top. This is a great place to sit while you belay your second.

  • RCM&W #31, p.39.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the furthest left crack on this face.

Descent/TR setup: via the third class chimney on Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts, hexes, cams, tri-cams. I didn't use anything bigger than hand/fist sized. Standard top rope setup

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Tyson S Arp  
 
Definitely one of the more protectable climbs in the area. Makes a good lead. Feb 16, 2007
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
Jeff J.   Sioux Falls, SD
Leading up straight over the small roof and then traversing left is a great alternate ending and is a bit harder Oct 23, 2011
Pete Hunt  
 
Multiple 2" to 3" cams very helpful on lead. Jan 6, 2012

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