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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Crack, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Right TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purgatory T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway To Hell TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,750 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

A fun route on either lead or top rope. Follow the crack up, traverse left at a small roof/ledge, and continue to the top. The climb tops out at a small ledge 3 feet below the true top. This is a great place to sit while you belay your second.

  • RCM&W #31, p.39.

Location

This is the furthest left crack on this face.

Descent/TR setup: via the third class chimney on Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).

Protection

Nuts, hexes, cams, tri-cams. I didn't use anything bigger than hand/fist sized. Standard top rope setup

Photos

Tyson Arp  
 
Definitely one of the more protectable climbs in the area. Makes a good lead. Feb 16, 2007
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
Jeff J.   Sioux Falls, SD
Leading up straight over the small roof and then traversing left is a great alternate ending and is a bit harder Oct 23, 2011
Pete Hunt  
 
Multiple 2" to 3" cams very helpful on lead. Jan 6, 2012
Benedict Rasmussen
Omaha, NE
 
Benedict Rasmussen   Omaha, NE
 
If you've got some less experienced climbers with you, this is a great climb to take them to. Younger climbers tend to want to climb into the little cove about 2/3 up and get stuck trying to figure out how to get out. Don't tell them until after that the key is to not get stuck in the first place! Aug 21, 2018

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