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Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Crack, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kanaranzi Right TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purgatory T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway To Hell TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,388 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Truely an awesome route. Find the easiest way to the top working your way to the right and then to the left at the overhang. A "hidden" hold awaits your discovery, I couldn't believe I'd missed it after I finally found it...
  • RCM&W #34, p.39.


This route is located on the face just right of The Crack.


Standard Top Rope setup. No real pro to speak of on lead.


Tyson S Arp
Tyson S Arp  
Definitely a great route. One of my favorites from the whole park! It's even more enjoyable now that the park cleared away some of the trees from the base of the climb. Feb 16, 2007
Pete Hunt  
Does anyone have any info on the whereabouts of the "secret handhold"? Jul 26, 2009
Nathan Migdal
Bloomington, mn
Nathan Migdal   Bloomington, mn
If anyone does know, they should keep it a secret... that's the essence of adventure climbing after all. Or at least don't post it on this page please. Happy sends. Nov 26, 2009
Tyson S Arp
Tyson S Arp  
--Spoiler Alert--
The secret hold is somewhere partway up the cliff. That is to say, you have to climb up to get to it. Hope that helps! Nov 26, 2009
Blake K
Carrboro, NC
Blake K   Carrboro, NC
A little beta never hurt anyone. Check out the page for The Naked Edge... I guess by some people's standards, the author of that isn't in to "adventure climbing."…

Pete, if I knew I'd tell you. Or better yet, I'd show you. Dec 31, 2010
Pete Hunt  
Thanks Blake! I've always been curious what Mike and the route contributor on here meant by it even having climbed the route many times. Guess I'm thinking about it too hard. Feb 19, 2011

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