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Routes in 5. Saturday Buttress

Alexandra David Neal TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Becky's Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black and Blue Bulge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gulliver's Travels TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard Rock Cafe TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ivy Right T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jasper's Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Stump T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Revenge of the Nerds TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,981 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 25, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

An excellent beginner climb or first lead. This route follows the crack system straight to the top.
  • RCM&W #68, p.47.

Location

This route lies to the right of Jasper's Dihedral and to the left of Old Stump.

Protection

Nuts and hexes. Bring cams if you trust them in quartzite. Standard top rope setup.
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
Just lead (most of) this on Saturday August 29th, 2015. I felt like it took amazing gear. About 10 feet below the top where there are two cracks I saw an active hornets nest in the right crack that I didn't feel comfortable leading past (already got stung by hornets on my 2nd ever trad lead this year, didn't want to go through that again). We had a top rope set up on Jaspers dihedral so I tied into that rope while on the ledge and went on belay on top rope and off belay on lead and came back and cleaned the gear on rappel. Careful if you're leading this route. Aug 31, 2015
The center line here (between Ivy Right and Old Stump) is an fun extra route that can be done on the same TR as Ivy R and Old Stump. Go directly over the hump, then straight up the center of the face using the crack of Ivy as little as possible. Finish using the finger crack and sort-of flake in the center of the face. To me it felt like somewhere between a hard 5.8 and a 5.9. Aug 6, 2015
andyedwards
Jackson, WY
andyedwards   Jackson, WY
Started leading this one, and about 25' up, find that I'm staring at a snake a foot in front of my face. Not poisonous, but I don't really care for snakes. Jan 25, 2012
Chris Williams
Saint Paul, MN USA
 
Chris Williams   Saint Paul, MN USA
 
You can actually do multipitch on this one. I've done it a handful of times for training people. About halfway up is a ledge that works as a good belay stance that is large enough for two people. Good way to learn switching leads and tying in and all that. Jun 2, 2011
Brett McGraw
  5.6 PG13
Brett McGraw  
  5.6 PG13
This was my fifth trad lead and best route I've lead to date. Lots of placement options and a great ledge at the top to set up a belay anchor. Jun 1, 2010
I turned this into a 2-pitch route with 2 followers by setting up a gear anchor at the ledge half-way up. Kind of a lot of work for a 45-foot climb, but good practice. Apr 20, 2008
Tyson S Arp  
 
Great beginner lead--lots of restful stances and lots of placement options. Don't forget your tricams--they fit jagged quartzite cracks extremely well. Feb 16, 2007