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Routes in 9. Chimney Buttress

Abyss, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boy Howdy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushmaster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horizontal Tango, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In and Out T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poika TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roofs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seduction and Rejection TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
X T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Z T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
dance, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,203 total, 9/month
Shared By: Doug Lintz on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

X is the crack route at the right edge of Chimney Buttress's large roof. Start up the left side of the crack eventually moving to its right side. Continue over the small roof (crux) and up on easier terrain.

Protection

Very protectable with nuts, medium to small cams, and hexes for the old schoolers or use a standard Blue Mounds toprope (long slings helpful).

Photos

Pete Hunt  
 
Nice lead with good pro. Bring a set of nuts for the numerous constrictions in the crack. Cams in the .75" to 1" range are also useful. Jan 13, 2012
fun climb! i would have to rate it at a 5.8 as well. significantly more difficult than other 5.7s at this crag. good protection, but wish i had some smaller nuts than what i brought up Sep 6, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Ah, I've looked through the Hynek & Landmann guidebook before but don't own it. Regarding the overall grades at BM I've always felt they were definitely "old school".....a 5.9 here is usually a 5.10 elsewhere. Mar 9, 2007
Tyson S Arp
  5.8+
Tyson S Arp  
  5.8+
By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Don Hynek & Eric Landmann. This book was published in 1989 and reprinted in 1993. Since then, ratings have been changed for many routes in the newer guidebooks that include Blue Mounds. Interestingly, however, most ratings have been bumped up recently and not down. Yes, it may not be an 8+, but I do think it is harder than Obvious Crack and Old Stump which are both 7's. Mar 8, 2007
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Where did you find an "original" rating of 5.8+? Compared to other 5.7s at Blue Mounds I don't think it's any more difficult and the feet are solid. Mar 8, 2007
Tyson S Arp
  5.8+
Tyson S Arp  
  5.8+
I think this is a little harder than 5.7. I noticed last time I lead it that the footholds are much more polished than they used to be, so I can't see changing the rating from the original 5.8+ to 5.7. Feb 16, 2007