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Routes in Finger Rock

Finger Rock (Standard Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pull My Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb and Jan Conn, late 1940's (probable)
Page Views: 6,719 total, 39/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Nov 29, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

If your legs and brain are still responsive after the hike up to Finger Rock, you might as well climb it. After all that hard work, it'd be a waste not to, right?

The technical route up Finger Rock begins in the western saddle between Prominent Point and Finger Rock itself. The climbing starts up the north-northeast face of the Finger, immediately above the trail's end:

Climb up easily protected flake, past small bulge and cracks, to a ledge with two small trees (~50').

From ledge, continue up easy terrain, past a bolted 5.8 crux to two-bolt rappel station (~30'). The teetering summit block is another ten feet above the bolts.

A single 60m rope will allow for a rap to the ground.

Extreme exposure and scary, shifting rock will likely make your summit experience a short one. But hey, at least your legs and nerves are trashed for the brutal, three hour downhill slog that lies ahead! Happy trails!

Protection

A few medium sized cams (0.5-1.0 camalots) and a set of nuts.
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.6
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.6
SlammyG you can set up a TR using the chains, but they are 6-8 feet below the summit. 5 days ago
SlammyG
Scottsdale, AZ
SlammyG   Scottsdale, AZ
Can a TR be set up from the chains and allow the climber to reach the summit? 7 days ago
RalphE
Boulder, CO
5.6
RalphE   Boulder, CO
5.6
Downloadable GPS approach here:
gpsies.com/map.do;jsessionid=28D60E3CE1ADEBDD1A0AC5362442A114.fe3?fileId=tylggadcpursgwzf

3.5-hour approach including beer gut and head cold. Jan 1, 2017
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
I was in Soren's party. It was amazing! Also recommend a sling and a locker or two for the belay atop the 4th class. We left the car at 7:42pm and returned at 6:08am. 4 people and most had multiple trips to the top. What a great time. I was the first to top out, around 1:11am. We had 4 in the group, and the last of us rapped off at about 3:00am. Jun 4, 2012
Totally awesome at the top and the best urination of my life. Did the hike and the climb at night; started the trail at 7:42 and started the climb at midnight. It was a very surreal adventure hiking and climbing this thing at night with headlamps. The climb was forgettable but the summit was incredible. All you really need, as far as gear goes is three draws, one for the bolt and the other two for the anchors and an optional #2 that should be placed at the bottom, to keep the belayer from tumbling off the ledge if the climber falls. Jun 4, 2012
Don Stump
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.6 PG13
Don Stump   Sierra Vista, AZ
5.6 PG13
Finished the Finger Rock hike/climb! I would have to be paid to do this climb again. 3800 ft of elevation gain in three miles. 4 hours to reach the base, then a short easy climb. 11 hours and 15 minutes round trip. Bragging rights are worth it, so I would recommend doing this climb once, but Babo was so much better. There is no-longer a scary, shifting rock on the summit. May 23, 2011
If you climb straight up from the base, you need the #4. It's definitely harder than the second pitch. Traversing left on the first pitch I imagine is much easier. Jan 21, 2011
Zeb Rafaker
Moab
  5.8
Zeb Rafaker   Moab
  5.8
I soloed this route at least 4 years ago and it's the weeks of pulling out cactus needles I remember the most. That and my very stoned decent in the dark:) Nov 20, 2009
Guess Rick gets another trophy for Az FA climbing knowledge!

That's an awesome piece of history Don!
Thanks. Nov 11, 2009
When we climbed Finger Rock in spring, 1957, there was a note signed by Herb and Jan Conn still on the summit. Nov 5, 2009
Didn’t even need the #4. three quickdraws did the trick. Great climb! The falcons will put on a show for you at the top. Take a wrench, bolt on chains was finger tight. And the summit log is almost full. Mar 29, 2009
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
For anyone comfortable with solo alpine-ish rambles, this makes a great training outing. If approached as such, here are a couple thoughts...The crux is by no means 5.8, but a single move of 5.5 or 5.6 at most on positive edges with a small ledge immediately below; it could very feasibly be downclimbed, eliminating the need to bring a rope/harness and allow one to go as light as possible...or, one could carry a few double-length runners to rig a swami and clip the bolt for a bit more peace of mind...again, merely suggestions for those comfy with such outings. A fun outing overall, but pretty lackluster climbing to a sweet vantage. Feb 3, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
for people who aren't crazy i would recommend half a rack, 10 slings, and a couple lockers to establish an anchor on the ledge with the trees.

also, this climb made me happy where i pee. Apr 14, 2008
JT Daiker
Golden, CO
 
JT Daiker   Golden, CO
 
the astonishing approach and spectacular 'summit' far outshine the unremarkable technical climb. early spring is the best time to seek this adventure. more info can be found here:

climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…

localhikes.com/hikes/finger… Apr 10, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FOUR FREAKIN STARS BABY!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111ONEONEONEONEONE Apr 7, 2008
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
For a much longer route to the top of Finger Rock, you can start down and left of the standard route. Climb a long pitch or two up easy rock passing some relic pitons after a chimney section (hard to find). Walk across a thin rock rib to join the standard route at the top of the first pitch at the tree. This is a more adventurous, less direct, and scrappier route. Jun 5, 2004