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Routes in Finger Rock

Finger Rock (Standard Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pull My Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb and Jan Conn, late 1940's (probable)
Page Views: 7,377 total · 41/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Nov 29, 2003
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

If your legs and brain are still responsive after the hike up to Finger Rock, you might as well climb it. After all that hard work, it'd be a waste not to, right?

The technical route up Finger Rock begins in the western saddle between Prominent Point and Finger Rock itself. The climbing starts up the north-northeast face of the Finger, immediately above the trail's end:

Climb up easily protected flake, past small bulge and cracks, to a ledge with two small trees (~50').

From ledge, continue up easy terrain, past a bolted 5.8 crux to two-bolt rappel station (~30'). The teetering summit block is another ten feet above the bolts.

A single 60m rope will allow for a rap to the ground.

Extreme exposure and scary, shifting rock will likely make your summit experience a short one. But hey, at least your legs and nerves are trashed for the brutal, three hour downhill slog that lies ahead! Happy trails!

Protection

A few medium sized cams (0.5-1.0 camalots) and a set of nuts.
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
For a much longer route to the top of Finger Rock, you can start down and left of the standard route. Climb a long pitch or two up easy rock passing some relic pitons after a chimney section (hard to find). Walk across a thin rock rib to join the standard route at the top of the first pitch at the tree. This is a more adventurous, less direct, and scrappier route. Jun 5, 2004
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FOUR FREAKIN STARS BABY!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111ONEONEONEONEONE Apr 7, 2008
JT Daiker
Golden, CO
 
JT Daiker   Golden, CO
 
the astonishing approach and spectacular 'summit' far outshine the unremarkable technical climb. early spring is the best time to seek this adventure. more info can be found here:

climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…

localhikes.com/hikes/finger… Apr 10, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
for people who aren't crazy i would recommend half a rack, 10 slings, and a couple lockers to establish an anchor on the ledge with the trees.

also, this climb made me happy where i pee. Apr 14, 2008
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
For anyone comfortable with solo alpine-ish rambles, this makes a great training outing. If approached as such, here are a couple thoughts...The crux is by no means 5.8, but a single move of 5.5 or 5.6 at most on positive edges with a small ledge immediately below; it could very feasibly be downclimbed, eliminating the need to bring a rope/harness and allow one to go as light as possible...or, one could carry a few double-length runners to rig a swami and clip the bolt for a bit more peace of mind...again, merely suggestions for those comfy with such outings. A fun outing overall, but pretty lackluster climbing to a sweet vantage. Feb 3, 2009
Didn’t even need the #4. three quickdraws did the trick. Great climb! The falcons will put on a show for you at the top. Take a wrench, bolt on chains was finger tight. And the summit log is almost full. Mar 29, 2009
When we climbed Finger Rock in spring, 1957, there was a note signed by Herb and Jan Conn still on the summit. Nov 5, 2009
Guess Rick gets another trophy for Az FA climbing knowledge!

That's an awesome piece of history Don!
Thanks. Nov 11, 2009
Zeb Rafaker
Moab
  5.8
Zeb Rafaker   Moab
  5.8
I soloed this route at least 4 years ago and it's the weeks of pulling out cactus needles I remember the most. That and my very stoned decent in the dark:) Nov 20, 2009
If you climb straight up from the base, you need the #4. It's definitely harder than the second pitch. Traversing left on the first pitch I imagine is much easier. Jan 21, 2011
Don Stump
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.6 PG13
Don Stump   Sierra Vista, AZ
5.6 PG13
Finished the Finger Rock hike/climb! I would have to be paid to do this climb again. 3800 ft of elevation gain in three miles. 4 hours to reach the base, then a short easy climb. 11 hours and 15 minutes round trip. Bragging rights are worth it, so I would recommend doing this climb once, but Babo was so much better. There is no-longer a scary, shifting rock on the summit. May 23, 2011
Totally awesome at the top and the best urination of my life. Did the hike and the climb at night; started the trail at 7:42 and started the climb at midnight. It was a very surreal adventure hiking and climbing this thing at night with headlamps. The climb was forgettable but the summit was incredible. All you really need, as far as gear goes is three draws, one for the bolt and the other two for the anchors and an optional #2 that should be placed at the bottom, to keep the belayer from tumbling off the ledge if the climber falls. Jun 4, 2012
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
I was in Soren's party. It was amazing! Also recommend a sling and a locker or two for the belay atop the 4th class. We left the car at 7:42pm and returned at 6:08am. 4 people and most had multiple trips to the top. What a great time. I was the first to top out, around 1:11am. We had 4 in the group, and the last of us rapped off at about 3:00am. Jun 4, 2012
RalphE
Boulder, CO
5.6
RalphE   Boulder, CO
5.6
Downloadable GPS approach here:
gpsies.com/map.do;jsessionid=28D60E3CE1ADEBDD1A0AC5362442A114.fe3?fileId=tylggadcpursgwzf

3.5-hour approach including beer gut and head cold. Jan 1, 2017
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.6
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.6
SlammyG you can set up a TR using the chains, but they are 6-8 feet below the summit. Nov 16, 2017
SlammyG
Scottsdale, AZ
 
SlammyG   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Didn't need to TR as our inexperienced friends didn't join us, thanks for the Beta though Paul!

I Really only need a #1 and #2, sling and locker for tree belay, quick draw for bolt. Placed some pro on pitch 2 but really wasn't necessary. Next time I will bring a much smaller rack. Great summit, great adventure!!! Nov 27, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Had been looking at this for 35 years but was too lazy to do the hike. Well worth it. We used a 7.5 half rope to tie in long at the anchors so we could sit on the Summit and enjoy snacks and the view. We took a lot of the sting out of the hike by going light. Probably only 2 places you need gear if you can climb 5.8 trad, the rest is a scramble. Both of those spots are 5.6. My partner had never soloed before and had no problem. Super fun to sit on the feature that dominates Tucson's northern skyline. Feb 8, 2018
I did what Trevor Bowman suggested and used a harness and two double runners on the bolt. I personally won't bring any more gear than that if I do the climb again (and I might even free solo it now that I've been on it). The bolts seem a bit old based on the standards I learned from CASA. I'm reporting them to CASA's A-team. Jun 24, 2018
Kat Henry
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Kat Henry   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Did this yesterday w/ a party of 5. We got a bit off on the approach (if you could call it that) so here's some beta: when you get to the firepit (you are getting close to the finger by then), you will come to a split in the trail. The trail to the right is blocked by a large log. Go that way. Do not go straight - we did that and basically went up to the top of Guard Rock (the rock next to the Finger) - which was cool, but not Finger Rock.

After you turn right at the big log, bear left/stay high. Don't drop down into the canyon to your right. Instead follow along the base of the walls to your left and you will get there. There are cairns but sometimes they are hard to see, you will find them if you are patient and look around.

The climb itself was easier than I expected. Super fun & worth the view. Sep 2, 2018

More About Finger Rock (Standard Route)

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