Elevation: 12,605 ft
GPS: 43.835, -110.776 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,068 total · 294/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on May 11, 2006 with updates from Gee Dubble
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
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Description

Mt. Moran is the broad peak in the northern Teton range. It stands somewhat apart from the other Teton peaks. Moran has many beautiful rock/ice routes while being much less visited than the other Teton peaks.

Getting There

The approach to the most popular routes on Mt. Moran involves canoeing across String and Leigh Lakes. From inside Grand Teton National Park, go to South Jenny Lake Junction and follow signs to the String Lake Parking Area. Canoe across String Lake, portage to Leigh Lake, and canoe across Leigh Lake.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Moran

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 91
CMC Route
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
 3
North Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
 17
Direct South Buttress
Aid, Alpine 11 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
No Escape Buttress, West Arete
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 23
South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
CMC Route
 91
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
North Ridge
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Direct South Buttress
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 Aid, Alpine 11 pitches
No Escape Buttress, West Arete
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
South Buttress Right, Mt. M…
 23
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
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Approach; South Buttress Routes: because the canyon bottom above the lakeshore is difficult; the approach route has become pretty standard. From the lakeshore campsite bear box, north of the inlet, hike west and UP through thimbleberry and timber, gaining 25 vertical meters as you hike WNW. There are some cairns on the small trail. Now above the drainage, in Aspen, and open rock, hike straight west on this contour till you meet the north braid of the creek in talus, crux, least trailed. Then follow north side of north creek braid, in avalanche runouts, cottonwoods, and cobbled flood stones, with cairns, till west side of Laughing Lion Falls is reached and follow talus to the base. Grizzly bear hazard. (Winter and Spring ski tours enter canyon on south side of creek, south of the inlet campsite, bear box, using open rock slab to avoid deadfall and canyon bottom.) Jun 13, 2017