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Routes in Mount Moran

CMC Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct South Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
No Escape Buttress Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
No Escape Buttress, West Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Buttress Hodini T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Buttress Prow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 12,605 ft
GPS: 43.835, -110.776 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 36,107 total, 256/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on May 11, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

Description

Mt. Moran is the broad peak in the northern Teton range. It stands somewhat apart from the other Teton peaks. Moran has many beautiful rock/ice routes while being much less visited than the other Teton peaks.

Getting There

The approach to the most popular routes on Mt. Moran involves canoeing across String and Leigh Lakes. From inside Grand Teton National Park, go to South Jenny Lake Junction and follow signs to the String Lake Parking Area. Canoe across String Lake, portage to Leigh Lake, and canoe across Leigh Lake.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Moran

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Approach; South Buttress Routes: because the canyon bottom above the lakeshore is difficult; the approach route has become pretty standard. From the lakeshore campsite bear box, north of the inlet, hike west and UP through thimbleberry and timber, gaining 25 vertical meters as you hike WNW. There are some cairns on the small trail. Now above the drainage, in Aspen, and open rock, hike straight west on this contour till you meet the north braid of the creek in talus, crux, least trailed. Then follow north side of north creek braid, in avalanche runouts, cottonwoods, and cobbled flood stones, with cairns, till west side of Laughing Lion Falls is reached and follow talus to the base. Grizzly bear hazard. (Winter and Spring ski tours enter canyon on south side of creek, south of the inlet campsite, bear box, using open rock slab to avoid deadfall and canyon bottom.) Jun 13, 2017

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