| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.59057, -109.94987 |
| FA: | Ron Olevsky, solo, FFA Ken Sims, Mark Hesse, Maura Hanning (1995) |
| Page Views: | 1,927 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Dec 9, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This is a good route on a fun tower in an really beautiful setting. All four pitches are engaging. The crux is hard and spooky but can be aided.
Pitch One Climb the obvious crack up a shallow right facing corner to a few moves on dubious rock through a horizontal band and a two piton anchor. 5.10
Pitch Two Ascend the beautiful corner above the belay. 5.11 R
Pitch Three Climb past a couple angles to a corner and then make some awkward moves left under a large flake. The RC Utah book says to avoid this way as there is a death flake but I didnt find it that scary so perhaps there was another flake that has fallen. To avoid the flake the book says to face climb left at 5.9+ to a corner that is followed to the anchor. 5.10
Pitch Four Face climb past several angles to the summit. 5.9
Rappel from the summit to the top of the third pitch and then to the top of the first pitch.



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