Elevation: 6,556 ft
GPS: 43.849, -103.535 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,939 total · 39/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 11, 2002 with improvements by Danny Canete
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
56°F - 42°F 13°C - 6°C
62°F - 43°F 17°C - 6°C
Memorial Day
49°F - 36°F 9°C - 2°C
44°F - 34°F 7°C - 1°C
54°F - 38°F 12°C - 3°C
56°F - 38°F 13°C - 3°C


Spire Two is the second spire from the left when looking at the Cathedral Spires from the parking lot. This is a large spire, and it requires around 3 pitches to get to the top. This rock and Spire Four are probably the two most commonly climbed spires in the whole area. An excellent 5.4 climbs the east side.

Route:  follow the obvious gully up and right.  The first pitch ends as you turn up and right out of view from your belayer.  Pitch 2 ends further up and inside the gully on a nice belay ledge with chains for a rap.  Pitch 3 begins by squeezing between the blocks and climbing up to a ledge for a bolt protecting a 5.7 face move onto the rock.  End the pitch on this formation, or step across to the larger detached summit further north.

Descend by rappelling from the summit following the East Face route. Two ropes are necessary except for the third pitch needs only one.

Getting There

Follow trail #4 from the Cathedral Spires parking lot towards the spires. When the trail branches, the best way is to take the right branch and find the Spire Two-Three gully. Head up this gully (with Rubaiyat Spire at the bottom) and Spire Two is at the the top of the gully on the left. The most commonly climbed route on it is the East Face, and this is easily identified by a trampled area at the base of the route.

Another good way to get to this spot is to stay straight on the main trail and go around to the uphill side of the area. This rock is very near Station 13, which is at the top of the Spire Two-Three gully.

3 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Spire Two Change
Type:  to 
Sort by:   then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Spire Two

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jan and Jane Route
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jan and Jane Route
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Spire Two »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


I did this route around 1998 and it was my first trad lead (not counting the trad class I took and years of setting top rope anchors).There is a good stance for almost all gear placement, and there is some 4th class climbing. The only exposed part is the last pitch which is slabby. I don't remember if there is a bolt on the 3rd pitch slab, but I'm thinking there had to be or I would have been freaked out(I would have remembered that). Nice view from the top. It's a very enjoyable climb. Jun 20, 2003
Robert Prann
Rapid City, SD
Robert Prann   Rapid City, SD
Found a helmet at the base of the rappel for Spire Two on September 28th. Forgot to post until now. Sorry. If it's yours hit me up and we can get it back to you. Nov 1, 2012
Danny Canete
Dallas, TX
Danny Canete   Dallas, TX
Pass up the rap anchor with webbing on the first pitch and link pitch 1 and 2, or start the simul-climbing at the end of pitch 2 to finish the third pitch. Pitch 2 is a NICE belay ledge with chains. Short pitch 3 with a bolt for the little face move. Pass up the small rap chains at the top of this pinnacle and step across (North) to the larger summit. More space and newer rap station from there will get you down in one rappel with two 60m's. Oct 6, 2018