Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
Elevation: 6,584 ft 2,007 m
GPS: 43.8487, -103.5333
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 257,461 total · 942/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 24, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty
Page Updates (admin only)

Description Suggest change

The Cathedral Spires hold some of the longer routes in the Black Hills. This is a great place for beginners to learn how to lead multi-pitch trad routes (classic 3-pitch routes that go at 5.4 and under). Also, there are many more challenging area classics. Most routes lead to awesome small summit perches.

Make sure to check out the standard routes on Spires 1-4, Station 13, God's Own Drunk, and Cat's Meow. Many routes have great belay ledges, and most all routes require a rappel (often needing double ropes). Few bolts exist, so bring a standard rack for almost every route. However, many fixed anchors are available.

The Cathedral Spires are numbered 1 through 9. There are roughly 75 summits in all in this small area, and many main gully systems for approaches. Nine main rock systems exist (each separated by a gully) with the highest spire given the number 1 through 9. The gullies become fairly unclear between Spires 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake. At the Sylvan Lake entrance, pay the entrance fee, then drive 2.2 miles on highway 87 past the Needle's Eye, through the tunnel, and park at a small lot that is located on a tight hairpin curve. The Cathedral Spires can be clearly seen towards the north, and Sandberg Peak (5.8) is the cool rickety spire next to the lot.

Hike north towards the Cathedral Spires on trail #4 from the parking lot. Watch out for a faint trail leading off to the NE as you get close to the spires. Approaches vary per spire, but either follow the main trail up the hill and approach from the back side (uphill side) of the spires, or take this trail junction for lower spires.

At this point, usually a map is needed to choose the correct gully to hike up. Find out the appropriate gully and look for landmarks. The widest gully is the Spire 4-5 gully. Another landmark to look for is Khayyam Spire. It is located at the bottom of the Spire 2-3 gully, and has a steep yellow face on its south side.

135 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Cathedral Spires Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Cathedral Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 201
● Spire Four
Trad 3 pitches
Spire Four
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 156
● East Face
Trad 3 pitches
Spire Two
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 40
● Jan and Jane Route
Trad 2 pitches
Spire Two
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 68
● International Chimney
Trad 3 pitches
Spire Three
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
● West Gruesome
Trad 2 pitches
Spire Four
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
● North Crack
Trad 3 pitches
Balcony Point
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
● Spire 1 Reppy Variation
Trad 4 pitches
Spire One
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
● The Great Northwest Dihedral
Trad 4 pitches
Spire Four
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
● Eyetooth
Trad 2 pitches
Eyetooth
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
● God's Own Drunk
Trad 2 pitches
Khayyam Spire
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
● South Tower Conn Route
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Spire Four
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 24
● Cat's Meow
Trad 3 pitches
Spire Three
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 16
● East Gruesome
Trad
E Gruesome
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
● Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue
Trad 2 pitches
Spire Four
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 8
● Highly Suspicious
Trad
Station 13
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Spire Four Spire Four
 201
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
● East Face Spire Two
 156
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Jan and Jane Route Spire Two
 40
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● International Chimney Spire Three
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 3 pitches
● West Gruesome Spire Four
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
● North Crack Balcony Point
 38
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Spire 1 Reppy Variation Spire One
 66
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
● The Great Northwest Dihedral Spire Four
 33
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
● Eyetooth Eyetooth
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● God's Own Drunk Khayyam Spire
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
● South Tower Conn Route Spire Four
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
● Cat's Meow Spire Three
 24
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● East Gruesome E Gruesome
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
● Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue Spire Four
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Highly Suspicious Station 13
 8
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cathedral Spires »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

I just happen to catch the right light on the way out of the park. Cathederal Spires from the South
I just happen to catch the right light on the w…
 27
Spires<br>
Spires
 21
Evening view from the top of Khayyam Spire.
Evening view from the top of Khayyam Spire.
 21
Spires in the rain.
Spires in the rain.
 26
Cathedral Spires from the north.
Cathedral Spires from the north.
 10
Picket Fence, etc. from the top of the Spire 2/3 gulley. June 08.
Picket Fence, etc. from the top of the Spire 2/…
 7
The Cathedral Spires as seen from the top of Bartizan. I've labeled them to the best of my knowledge using the Piana map for the one's I'm not personally familiar with. If I've screwed something up, let me know. For those of you who haven't been to the top of Bartizan, the view is awesome and this photo does not do it justice!
The Cathedral Spires as seen from the top of Ba…
 5
Here's one more of the Spires from the South.
Here's one more of the Spires from the South.
 6
Messing around with Photoshop.
Messing around with Photoshop.
 4
Hopefully This will help you Find your Way
Hopefully This will help you Find your Way
 3
Katherine Chumacero - rap off Rubiyat Spire, 5.8 Conn Route.
Katherine Chumacero - rap off Rubiyat Spire, 5.…
 2
Spires 1 thru 4 as seen from the parking lot...
Spires 1 thru 4 as seen from the parking lot...
 2

9 Comments

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading