All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Cathedral Spires

Eyetooth Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Eyetooth

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dental Dam T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
	Eyetooth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	6,637 ft
GPS:	43.84915, -103.53319 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	10,310 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Jul 21, 2002
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

Description

Eyetooth is an unmistakable spire that looms at the top of the Spire Four-Five gully. The tip of the spire is curving and produces a massive overhang on the uphill side. The routes to the top are fairly bold, and should not be taken lightly. Bring gear for any route, although a few bolts are in place. Also, a two-rope rappel is recommended. A one-rope rappel may be possible, with the addition of a downclimb in a 4th class chimney.

Getting There

Take trail #4 towards the Cathedral Spires. Take the climber's spur trail to the right before reaching the spires. Start counting major gullies. Pass the first 3 major gullies, and head up the 4th. This approach can be confusing. Tend leftwards, and identify the Spire Four-Five gully by being the most wide and open of any of them. If you have chosen correctly, Eyetooth will be very obvious sitting in the center of the gully. Do not attempt to find this from the uphill side because it cliffs out and you will not be able to reach the base of the routes.