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Routes in Station 13

East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
East Chimney Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Highly Suspicious T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Spooky, station 13 SE arete T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Superstition T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Chris Hirsch - Jason McNabb, Anthony Schwartz, Lee Terveen, Joel McKillop
Page Views: 2,755 total · 37/month
Shared By: Joel McKillop on Sep 2, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route climbs the southwest shoulder of station 13. Begin using the handcrack of Spooky, at twenty five feet gain a flake and rail to clip the first bolt. A refrigerator squeezing crux is encountered between this and the second bolt. Continue up following more bolts to a very balancy crux with a hard clip at the seventh bolt. The climbing here is exposed and unique with step throughs and side pulls! Keep on with the bolt line encountering another crux at the tenth bolt. Big moves take you to lucky number eleven... don't blow it going to the top or it will be lucky number 13.

Location

Southwest shoulder of Station 13

Protection

Hand size pieces for the beginning crack. Eleven bolts... bring a couple of longer runners for the last two bolts and gear placements at the bottom. Watch your rope! Lowering on an 80 meter will get you back down. Barely.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Witty prose makes for a great route description. Refrigerator squeezing. Jun 20, 2014
KyleMFSpurgeon
Syracuse, NY
KyleMFSpurgeon   Syracuse, NY
Hey, so, this says that it is a 40' (40m instead?) route with 12 bolts + pro. I feel like that is probably incorrect. Anybody have more accurate information? Apr 16, 2016
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.13
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.13
Yes it is 40m not 40'. Can barely TR with an 80m rope. There is now a set of anchors for this route, just below the summit. Apr 16, 2016
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
I've corrected the height to 120', and added a warning that lowering on an 80-meter rope will (barely) get you down. Apr 18, 2016

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