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Routes in Spire Four

Great Northwest Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamps/Goldstone Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Lark Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Tower Conn Route T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spire Four T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Gruesome T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
improbability drive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
two EX squared T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Archbold, Mike Engle
Page Views: 2,876 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bob Archbold on Aug 9, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Walk up the four - five gully as if you are going to Eyetooth. When you get with in view of Spire Four you will see a small roof about half way up on the south/southeast side. Climb a series of cracks and flakes to the small roof. At the roof climb out right to a hanging belay with chain anchors. Hence the name "Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue". From the anchor move to the right and catch the small seam that continues to grow into a larger crack as it goes up. Follow this to the top.


I use everthing from small brass nuts to a number 4 friend. In fact I usually take one of each friend and I take two number 4's Up high a person could use something bigger after the high bolt in the off width of the second pitch, but I never seem to. I've climbed this route several times.


Keith Noback  
Thanks for putting this route up. It's my all time favorite Needles route, though I still live in dread of the top of pitch 2. Aug 1, 2009
Brian Sadowsky
salt lake city
Brian Sadowsky   salt lake city
I climbed this route several years ago and I think it is my favorite route in the Needles. Varied climbing on great rock---its got a bit of everything. The routes position is fantastic, and you view one the nicest climbing settings I have ever seen. Ask Bob how he drilled the lead bolt on the 2nd pitch! Sep 13, 2008