Type: Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Howie Richardson, Jim Kanzler
Page Views: 10,163 total · 48/month
Shared By: Kevin Fons on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


73 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The route starts on the North Side of the spire - you can't miss it. The route follows the awesome dihedral.

A few weird moves gets you up to the start of the main dihedral. There are great stances for placing gear and then you move up and out - the dihedral is almost like reverse mini steps. It kind of goes like this - place gear, move up and out, loose sight of the gear because it is under the mini overhang, place another piece and repeat. When I climbed the route my partner kept saying to me - it looks like it eases up after the next move - after just about every move (not sure of the crux - just a lot of fun 5.8 moves with good gear ...). There is nothing like looking down between your legs in a stem and seeing your partner on the ground 170 feet below you. After the first pitch belay on the obvious ledge.The route then moves up and right - follow the path of least resistance up and to the top. We got into a weird awkward section with strange gear but it looks like we got off route. There is a great view from the top but that's the norm in the spires.You can either descend back down to the ledge and down to the base via two double rope rappels (check to see if the bolt(s) at the ledge have been replaced on the way up. Or, you can rappel down the south face and check out the Yellow face route. Note the second rappel you will need to move right (east) to reach the base of the slabs. Don't rap straight down off the ends of your rope - it would hurt.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos