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Routes in Khayyam Spire

Bourbon and Butterflies T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Champagne and Cocaine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Conn Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
God's Own Drunk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meltdown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Option C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power of Sole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Silk and Sangria T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tequila Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Chris Hirsch & Harrison Teuber (Ground-up) Oct. 2016
Page Views: 514 total, 37/month
Shared By: harrison t on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Another full value line of intense tugging on one of the best walls in the park! (or the Hills)
Start up the same right leaning ramp as 'Bourbon and Butterflies' (this is the R section) The ramp will turn into a flake, take this all the way to the top where it meets another large flake. Champagne heads up the right most seam just left of this large flake. The climbing is hard and very engaging, but it also has a couple nice rests.

The climbing is in your face right off the flake with some strenuous liebacking. Continue wandering up left, connecting seams to a very insecure traversing crux up and right... eventually reaching your first bolt. Punch it straight up the black streak with hard side-pulling and crimping to reach the second bolt. Passing the second bolt is tricky and then you are rewarded with a very pumpy RP placement up and left that protects the long crux! After all that excitement try to compose yourself while fiddling in more RPs that protect a traverse left to another seam/sidepull flake. Take this all the way until it dies, ending with yet another exciting traverse left with good hands over the bulge to reach the anchor! Now it's time for a toast.

Aside from the first 20' the protection is generally good, but small and some pieces will require a little sweet lovin' from a white line to get in... Great ride potential all over this rig!

Location

Line of seams to the right of 'Bourbon and Butterflies'.
Be careful if lowering with an 80m rope! Barely makes it, you'll have to lower up the hill a little ways.

Protection

A healthy assortment of small cammers to a BD .75
Offset cams (a double set to .4/.5 is really nice)
Single BD #2 and #3
Double set of offset rp's
2 bolts
A lot of slings! Maybe even a couple double lengths

Shares anchor with BnB and Silk

Photos

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