Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Chris Hirsch & Harrison Teuber (Ground-up) Oct. 2016
Page Views: 1,729 total · 25/month
Shared By: harrison t on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Another full value line of intense climbing on one of the best traditional walls in the park. 

Start up the same right leaning ramp as 'Bourbon and Butterflies' The ramp will turn into a flake, take this all the way to the top where it meets another large flake. Champagne heads up the right most seam just left of this large flake. The climbing is hard and very engaging, but it also has a couple nice rests.


Start up the flake with some strenuous liebacking. Continue wandering up left, connecting seams to a thin traverse up and right eventually reaching your first bolt. Punch it straight up the black streak passing the second bolt to a tricky and engaging crux. After all that excitement try to compose yourself while fiddling in more RPs traversing up and left to the anchor. Now it's time for a toast.

Aside from the first 20' the protection is generally good, but small and some pieces will require a little sweet lovin' from a white line to get in. 

Location

Line of seams to the right of 'Bourbon and Butterflies'.

Be careful if lowering with an 80m rope. Barely makes it, you'll have to lower up the hill a little ways.

Protection

A healthy assortment of small cammers to a BD .75

Offset cams

Single BD #2 and #3

offset rps

2 bolts

Shoulder slings. Double length

Shares anchor with BnB and Silk

Photos