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Routes in Khayyam Spire

Bourbon and Butterflies T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Champagne and Cocaine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Conn Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
God's Own Drunk T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Meltdown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Option C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power of Sole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Silk and Sangria T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tequila Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Corey Ellison
Page Views: 327 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This is a tough route even as a TR and the effort and energy to get the marginal and meager protection afforded would not make the route any easier... I am not guessing at its grade on lead. Start up the face on odd holds and with poor gear (5.9) to reach the bottom of a left-leaning crack (10a) where you can place a piece or two of small, so-so gear (pink tricam or an alien) and then up and right to a more vertical crack and some more so-so pro (stopper) then launch up the crack getting small gear when it is offered in coincidence of having a decent enough stance to place it. If leading, some of the crux moves will be well above questionable gear. Although a long fall would be clean, there is the ground to worry about. Finish up a vertical crack and seam with many face holds left of the crack, past and just left of a black streak in the wall.


Just to the right of God's Own Drunk, there is a yellow and grey wall articulated by some crack systems and a black vertical stripe. This climb follows the cracks and some face holds up the blank face to intersect a slightly left-leaning crack, then up past a few tiny plants to a better crack, then up to the bottom of a black streak, From there, continue up a crack and seam with face holds to the left up the wall to just left of a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. There is a second system just right of this with a 3' roof at mid-height.


A few nuts and cams from tiny to 2.5" Falling would be generally a bad idea. I imagine someone has lead this, but not me. Good TR, but use your own software and pay attention to the mini-links between the bolts and the fixed slings. Accessible after climbing God's Own Drunk (8+) P1 and traverse over, or on rap from the top.


Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
Excellent line, one of the best in the park! No need for the R rating, or even PG13...Beginning is thin for gear, but it is there. Bomber placements are all over this route. Sep 13, 2015

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