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Routes in Khayyam Spire

Bourbon and Butterflies T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Champagne and Cocaine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Conn Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
God's Own Drunk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meltdown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Option C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power of Sole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Silk and Sangria T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tequila Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Corey Ellison
Page Views: 754 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

The climb is a little broken and has some poor rock at a roof at mid height, but is otherwise good, at least as a T.R.
Climb up face with a chance for a few small nuts (5.9+) to reach a grey crack and seam system (more so-so-gear) that ascends to odd face moves with side-pulls and pinches (5.10+) up to a broken roof with a right-facing corner below it. Get under the roof and avoiding the broken rock in the underclings, get good finger-locks (and gear if leading) above the roof. Crank out over and above the roof (crux) to some sloper jams and more gear. Climb up and right through cracks to reach a ledge after a little more than 100'. A 70M rope is advisable. 60M requires and up-hill belayer to lower off safely. This route is a few meters right of 'Unknown 5.11' Does anyone know the history of these?

Location

This route is 2 lines to the right of God's Own Drunk and apparently just left of the Golden Wall. (line of bolts 4 meters to the right). The lower part is lightly chalked, the top was blank.
Finish on a ledge 100+ feet up and just right of a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

TR from 2 bolts or use a rack of gear from tiny to 3.5" with significant runouts

Photos

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Taylor Lais
Black Hills, SD
Taylor Lais   Black Hills, SD
With modern gear this route does not deserve an 'R' rating, PG13 seems appropriate. .

A conservative rack is:
- small/medium offset stoppers
- purple, green and red BD C3's
- all the X4's (regular and offsets)
- 1, 2 and 3 BD C4's

A three star route! Jul 21, 2016
From gods own drunk. left to right. Meltdown 11c r fa Corey ellison, power of sole 11d ish fa corey ellison, Silk and sangrea 12c sick fa Shaffer, Burbon and butteryflies 12a wow R fa shaffer.
All routes have been lead clean.
Second acents as far as I know have not been done on Burbon and butterflies and silk and sangrea, but I havent been climbing around there for ever so I would'nt be the one to ask anyway.
All route are on that wall are intense to lead and wicked fun to boot.
I saw Larry actually dyno on burbon and butterflies, thats like hearing brent fudge up a FA history or date, just kiddin.
Have fun you lucky &^%$#@%. Aug 7, 2010
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.11b/c R
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.11b/c R
I believe this route is named "Melt Down". Larry Shaffer got the FA on this. The rating is more in the mid 5.11 range. Jul 30, 2010