Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Corey Ellison
Page Views: 1,199 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

The climb is a little broken and has some poor rock at a roof at mid height, but is otherwise good, at least as a T.R.
Climb up face with a chance for a few small nuts (5.9+) to reach a grey crack and seam system (more so-so-gear) that ascends to odd face moves with side-pulls and pinches (5.10+) up to a broken roof with a right-facing corner below it. Get under the roof and avoiding the broken rock in the underclings, get good finger-locks (and gear if leading) above the roof. Crank out over and above the roof (crux) to some sloper jams and more gear. Climb up and right through cracks to reach a ledge after a little more than 100'. A 70M rope is advisable. 60M requires and up-hill belayer to lower off safely. This route is a few meters right of 'Unknown 5.11' Does anyone know the history of these?

Location

This route is 2 lines to the right of God's Own Drunk and apparently just left of the Golden Wall. (line of bolts 4 meters to the right). The lower part is lightly chalked, the top was blank.
Finish on a ledge 100+ feet up and just right of a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

TR from 2 bolts or use a rack of gear from tiny to 3.5" with significant runouts

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