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Routes in Khayyam Spire

Bourbon and Butterflies T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Champagne and Cocaine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Conn Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
God's Own Drunk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meltdown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Option C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power of Sole T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Silk and Sangria T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tequila Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Larry Shaffer
Page Views: 471 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 14, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

You'll need some bourbon to ease your butterflies on this full 40m of intensity! Ranks high as one of the boldest and best routes in the Park. Start up the right leaning trough/ramp and head straight up at the first probable looking seam. This is the 'R' rated section since the first placement is at about 20'. After that, the rest is consistent PG13. Surprisingly, there is a lot of gear. But don't pass up a placement, be ready to sniff them out and get creative. Merge into the very end of Silk and Sangria for an exciting finish! Fight the urge to clip Silk's 2nd to last bolt.

Location

The right most route on the Ethyl Wall. Start on right trending ramp. Single 80m barely makes it down.

Protection

Double offset cams
Double offset nuts/rp's
C3's down to #00
Single #1 & #2
Lots of slings
Shares Silk's bolted anchor

Photos

harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.12- R
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.12- R
Dang, that's a bad ass pitch of trad climbing.

Don't worry if you only have a single set of offset cams, but a single set of rps on the other hand would be a different story... Nov 21, 2016