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Routes in Balcony Point

North Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Barry Corbet, Jake Breitenbach, Charles Plummer '56
Page Views: 4,350 total, 23/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Sep 8, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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24 Opinions

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Description

This is a great climb. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of the east face route on Spire Two. Then, when at the saddle between Spire Two and Balcony Point, climb up to the obvious beautiful splitter crack that goes almost to the summit of Balcony Point. Climb this, the hardest move being pulling through a bulgy crack to the top of the pillar.

Protection

Standard Rack. The 3rd pitch is a perfect crack that eats up gear.
Jeff J.
Sioux Falls, SD
Jeff J.   Sioux Falls, SD
I agree about the anchor comment. I decided to build a gear anchor back in the cracks of the summit and it worked very well. I think belaying off the chains might send the 2nd into a swing if they fall. Sep 6, 2011
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.8 PG13
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
  5.8 PG13
Great route... Great position... Great Fun! If Classic Crack on Inner Outlet and the Doody Direct on the Gnomon are 5.8 then this route is 5.8. Beware of the awkward stance at the new anchors. Dec 18, 2008
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
  5.7
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
  5.7
What a great finish after climbing Spire 2. This is definitely a repeater...next time I plan on getting over the bulge without using my knee..haha Jul 9, 2007
Tyson S Arp
  5.6
Tyson S Arp  
  5.6
A very fun climb! Definitely as intimidating as it looks, but very well protected. Try not to add to the DNA collection as you jam the very sharp crack near the top!

Click here for more photos and a trip report. Sep 19, 2006