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Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 27
FA: Barry Corbet, Jake Breitenbach, Charles Plummer '56
> Custer SP
> Cathedral Spires
> Balcony Point
This is a great climb. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of the east face route on Spire Two. Then, when at the saddle between Spire Two and Balcony Point, climb up to the obvious beautiful splitter crack that goes almost to the summit of Balcony Point. Climb this, the hardest move being pulling through a bulgy crack to the top of the pillar.
Standard Rack. The 3rd pitch is a perfect crack that eats up gear.
[Hide Photo] Confronting the steep bulge at the top of the crack. I figured there would be a huge 'thank-god' hold right over the top to yard on, but I'm not telling--you'll have to go and find out for your self!
[Hide Photo] Looking from Spire Three, the spire just left of center is Balcony Point. Spire Two is to right of center. Right and back from Spire Two is Spire One. Khayyam Spire is in the background. The crux f…