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Routes in Rubaiyat Spire

Conn Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kamps Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ruby Slippers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Elevation: 6,487 ft
GPS: 43.848, -103.534 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,738 total · 22/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

This spire is shorter and downhill from Khayyam spire. Both Khayyam and Rubaiyat were named by Beckey (a Rubaiyat is a four line poem, in this case by Omar Khayyam). There are several lines up this. The original Conn line is 2 pitches from the downhill (southwest) side, or you can get up in one pitch from the north side.

An example of a Rubaiyat of Khayyam:

If with wine you are drunk be happy,
If seated with a moon-faced (beautiful), be happy,
Since the end purpose of the universe is nothing-ness;
Hence picture your nothing-ness, then while you are, be happy!

Getting There

Follow the Spires trail until the last and largest fork off to the right towards the gulleys. Walk uphill toward the spires until you see the obvious yellow wall on Khayyam. Look for the shorter spire right in front of Khayyam.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rubaiyat Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Kamps Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Conn Route
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kamps Route
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Conn Route
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
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Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Can a South Dakota administrator move the "east face" route posted by Marek on Khayyam to this spire? Makes more sense to have this spire seperate from Khayyam.

Also, if someone who has done the Conn route up the west face could add it that would be awesome. May 22, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I have not. We did the north face route.

Again if anyone has done the 5.8 Conn route up the south and west face, please add it. I could copy it from Touch the Sky but would be better for someone who has done it to list it. May 23, 2012
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
Hey, I have move the east face route. Sorry if the description still fails to "inspire". Don't let me keep you from trying the route though, I promise it is better than my description. May 25, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Thanks Jon. I wonder if what you describe was the original aid line first used in 1952 to get to the summit. Cool. May 25, 2012

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