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Elevation: 6,629 ft 2,021 m
GPS: 43.84908, -103.53358
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,254 total · 138/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 9, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description Suggest change

Spire Four is the highest summit in the Cathedral Spires, and probably the most popular formation in the group. The view is spectacular, the rock is fantastic, the route unique, and the climbing superb. If you climb only one of the Cathedral Spires, this is the one to do.

Getting There Suggest change

Hike the Cathedral Spires trail around to the backside of the spires. Hike up the Gully between Spires 3 and 4. A short stretch of 4th class or possibly low 5th class leads to a high saddle between the spires - rope up if you feel uncomfortable.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Spire Four

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 206
● Spire Four
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
● West Gruesome
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
● The Great Northwest Dihedral
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
● South Tower Conn Route
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
● Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
● two EX squared
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Spire Four
 206
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
● West Gruesome
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
● The Great Northwest Dihedral
 33
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
● South Tower Conn Route
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
● Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● two EX squared
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Spire Four »

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Photos

Greetings from the Black Hills!
Greetings from the Black Hills!
 9
Looking south towards the Spires from the Harney Peak Trail across the valley. Yellow dashed line is trail from highway, then splitting: Left (in photo, it's a Right on the ground) to Picket Fence. Trail to Harney Peak is at bottom of photo.
Looking south towards the Spires from the Harne…
 1
Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pulling out the Piana maps every 20 minutes to try to figure out what gulley we were in.
Probably a common scene for non-locals. Pullin…
 2
Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.
Climbers on Spire Four - taken from Spire Three.
 1
The Wormhole
The Wormhole
 1
Route topo with pitch break down, note P1 is only a 5.0 scramble up the 3/4 divide between Spires 3 and 4. Approximate location of bolted anchors noted in red. This picture is taken from the Cathedral Spires main trail from the north side (back side) facing south. Note Spire 1 on the far right.
Route topo with pitch break down, note P1 is on…
 1
Mt Goat..."Looking at You ! "
Mt Goat..."Looking at You ! "
 2
Step Across / "split" in Spire 4
Step Across / "split" in Spire 4
 1
If you look really close you can see our party of 4 on the top
If you look really close you can see our party…
 0
Cotton candy sky
Cotton candy sky
 0
Taken on route in the spires
Taken on route in the spires
 0
Gumbies crowding the belays...
Gumbies crowding the belays...
 0

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