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Routes in Spire Four

Great Northwest Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamps/Goldstone Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Lark Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Tower Conn Route T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spire Four T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Gruesome T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
improbability drive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
two EX squared T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Kamps and Rich Goldstone, 1966
Page Views: 1,329 total · 19/month
Shared By: R.Walters on Mar 30, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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A nice, long route on the N face of Spire 4 that deserves more attention. The first pitch is somewhat dirty, but with more traffic, it could clean up pretty nicely.

P1 - Starting at the lowest toe of rock on the N face, link together crack systems traversing back and forth a bit. Belay (gear) in an alcove at the beginning of a large chimney system. You might have to work a bit for the pro, but it's there. (5.8+, ~175')

P2 - Begin up the chimney system, trending left into some offwidth and fist-sized action in the back of a deep cleft. Wriggle onto the summit and belay. (5.8, ~150')


Hike just past the N side of the 3/4 gully to the toe of Spire Four's N face. A fixed pin should be visible from the ground and will get you headed in the right direction.


Doubles from tcu's to #4 Camalot. A #5 and #6 can be placed on P2.
First pitch has a few fixed pins.


Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
I'm pretty sure the 6 came in handy on that one as well. Apr 10, 2012