All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Spire Four

The Great Northwest Dihedral

Name: The Great Northwest Dihedral
Rating: 3.2

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Spire Four

L › R R › L A › Z

	Great Northwest Dihedral, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	improbability drive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Kamps/Goldstone Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Lark Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Tower Conn Route T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spire Four T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Tetrad T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	two EX squared T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	West Gruesome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type:	Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	43.84908, -103.53358
FA:	Herb and Jan Conn
Page Views:	7,642 total · 40/month
Shared By:	AndyKemedy on Jul 31, 2010
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a variation on the normal Spire 4 route. Instead of climbing up the back to the 3/4 gully, belay off the bolts for the approach pitch. Climb around the corner on the opposite side of the gully to a sloping ledge with an old piton in a crack. Set a belay and climb the dihedral to a chimney and under the broken spire. You can either set your own belay on gear or downclimb to the anchors above the wormhole. The last pitch is the same as the traditional route.

Location

Start at the base of the Spire 4 tree or climb the 3/4 gully. Three single rope rappels gets you to the base of the Spire 4 tree.

Protection

Standard rack and a #4 or #5 Camalot for the dihedral. Take some single and double length slings to sling horns. Fixed anchors atop the approach pitch, optional anchors atop the wormhole, and anchors at the top.