Type: Trad, 280 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Herb and Jan Conn
Page Views: 5,295 total · 51/month
Shared By: AndyKemedy on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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This is a variation on the normal Spire 4 route. Instead of climbing up the back to the 3/4 gully, belay off the bolts for the approach pitch. Climb around the corner on the opposite side of the gully to a sloping ledge with an old piton in a crack. Set a belay and climb the dihedral to a chimney and under the broken spire. You can either set your own belay on gear or downclimb to the anchors above the wormhole. The last pitch is the same as the traditional route.


Start at the base of the Spire 4 tree or climb the 3/4 gully. Three single rope rappels gets you to the base of the Spire 4 tree.


Standard rack and a #4 or #5 Camalot for the dihedral. Take some single and double length slings to sling horns. Fixed anchors atop the approach pitch, optional anchors atop the wormhole, and anchors at the top.
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
I was climbing Spire One while you guys were on this. Looked like a lot of fun! Aug 2, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
This is a terrific climb, with a lot of exposure on the first pitch. Although most of the first pitch is very easy, in my opinion the crux dihedral is at least 5.7 (for about 15 very exposed and continuous moves). It's a great way to do Spire 4, with a variety of different climbing to the top -- but the dihedral was not the easy romp that I sort of expected. I was glad I took plenty of gear with me to sew up that crack on the right side of the dihedral. (Cams up to a BD #4) Jul 8, 2012
Matt Edlund
St. Paul, MN
Matt Edlund   St. Paul, MN
Amazing route and summit! Definitely worth doing the approach pitch from the north side (behind the Spire 4 tree) as opposed to the slog up the 3-4 gully to get to the bolted rap anchor.

As mentioned, climb approach pitch behind the Spire 4 tree and build an anchor with gear and the piton at the base of the dihedral (don't clip the chains unless you love rope drag). Climb beautiful dihedral with plenty of gear in the right hand crack and then set a belay at a ledge near the base of a blocky chimney. Short pitch up and under some chockstones leads you to a great belay ledge maybe 15 vertical feet above the wormhole chains/rap anchor. From there it's a lovely final pitch to the summit, complete with the awesome step across. My second was quite happy that I set a directional sling off to the side of the anchors on top to help with rope direction on the step across, as opposed to belaying directly off the anchors. Then 3 single rope raps with a 60 gets you down.

Leisurely approach took 30 min. Jun 19, 2015
Ben Richard
Ben Richard  
Did this with a four person group this last weekend. I would definitely say that the second pitch (dihedral pitch) had some sustained 5.7 climbing. every thing else was pretty trivial. Jun 13, 2017