Type: Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches
FA: Herb & Jan Conn 1948
Page Views: 21,684 total · 81/month
Shared By: Anonymous on Sep 10, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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Your first decision is HOW to get to the climb! Start off by going down the Cathedral Spires trail . . . (Option #1 The short way) go past the climbers spur till you are directly North of Spire 4. Approach the 3/4 gully from the N side of the spires by bushwacking up the hill. Climb 4th class wall to the 3/4 saddle.

(Option #2 Fraggle Rock way) take the climbers spur (south of the spires)to the 3/4 gully, head up thru Fraggle Rock making some simple class 5 moves every now and again (check out the quartz waterfall) till you get to the 3/4 saddle.

If done in three pitches:

Pitch 1: Rope up or scramble about 35ft to first set of anchors (watch out for the dinner plate - waiting for someone to rip it off!).

Pitch 2: Follow the obvious route up into a jumble of rocks. Here is the wormhole (5.0)- squeeze your way through to your second set of chains (I had to take everything off my harness to fit!).

Pitch 3: Scramble up and avoid placing gear until you start actually climbing. This will prevent rope drag for the step across. Chains located on climbers left. At the top of this rock, you have to jump across to the summit of Spire Four - the best view in the hills if you ask me.

3 raps back to the base of the big pine with a 60M rope


Standard Trad rack = nothing larger than a #3 cam necessary, aliens come in handy and don't ever leave the ground w/o your nuts.

Good anchors / rappel chains at all belays. You may need to build a gear anchor to belay above pitch 2 when the rappel station gets busy.