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Spire 1 Reppy Variation
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.5 from 66
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Routes in Spire One
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Attack of the Wizard Cows S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blackberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brazilian Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spire 1 Reppy Variation T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spire One East Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Gill route variation - Javelin chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | John Reppy and Gil Young |
| Page Views: | 6,660 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Fons on Aug 31, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Start on the North East corner following the crack system up right and then step left to a second crack system up and to a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a third crack and a pin. A few moves up the crack and you are in the clear. Climb up the large bolts and chains and belay. This pitch can be a little wiggy (at least it was for me) but the pro is all there.The second pitch traverses 180 degrees around the spire to the right (facing the rock). Just follow the obvoius horrizontal. Belay at the flake. The third pitch goes up the flake / block then up left to the horrizontal crack below the summit block. Follow this 180 degrees back around to the left and the belay bolts. A quick scramble leads to the top of the summit block.Two Double rope rappels will lead you back to the base at your starting point.
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