Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Spire One

Spire 1 Reppy Variation T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spire One East Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 215 ft, 4 pitches
FA: John Reppy and Gil Young
Page Views: 3,896 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kevin Fons on Aug 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Start on the North East corner following the crack system up right and then step left to a second crack system up and to a sloping ramp. Follow the ramp up and right to a third crack and a pin. A few moves up the crack and you are in the clear. Climb up the large bolts and chains and belay. This pitch can be a little wiggy (at least it was for me) but the pro is all there.The second pitch traverses 180 degrees around the spire to the right (facing the rock). Just follow the obvoius horrizontal. Belay at the flake. The third pitch goes up the flake / block then up left to the horrizontal crack below the summit block. Follow this 180 degrees back around to the left and the belay bolts. A quick scramble leads to the top of the summit block.Two Double rope rappels will lead you back to the base at your starting point.


Standard trad Rack - Set of Stoppers, cams, tcu's ...


Brent Barghahn
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
One 60m will get you down onto a boulder with an easy scramble, aim for the highest point in the 1-2 shoulder Apr 10, 2016
Jimmy D
Rapid City
Jimmy D   Rapid City
A 70m will get you to the ground with a few feet to spare from the anchors on top of the first pitch. Jul 27, 2015
Tyson S Arp
Tyson S Arp  
Just a couple of points: First, there is no anchor on the summit itself--one must downclimb the final summit block to reach the first rappel anchor. Don't worry--it's not that hard. Second, the first rappel can be done with a single rope, but the second rappel requires two. On the second rappel, throw your rope towards Spire Two.

More photos and stories of climbing Spire One here. Sep 6, 2005

More About Spire 1 Reppy Variation

Printer-Friendly Guide