Elevation: 4,358 ft
GPS: 44.59, -104.717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 672,723 total · 3,209/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 29, 2002 with improvements by Lucas Barth and 5 others
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Devils Tower crams a high concentration of great cracks into the smallest area possible. People come from around the world to climb on this unique wonder. Climbing is sustained, and cracks are beautiful and uniformly shaped. Essentially, there is a crack every 5 or 10 feet, and they mostly run perfectly up and down, which reduces rope drag. The majority of the tower is less than vertical, and faces are blank. There are few face climbs, but who needs them with all these splitter cracks?

The easiest route to the summit is Durrance, which is stout 5.6. In general, climbs that are 5.8 and under tend to be offwidths, 5.9 are hand cracks, and 5.10 are finger cracks. There are too many classics to list. However, check out Assembly Line, Walt Bailey, and Soler for 5.9. For 5.10, go to One-Way Sunset, Hollywood & Vine, and Tulgey Wood.

Many routes are best done by climbing the first few pitches and then rappelling. Fixed anchors are numerous. The rock quality is poor for the last 100 feet of the tower or so. Most parties who summitrap do so through the Meadows area. This is the ledgy area that is a small distance below the summit on South face of the tower. Climbs such as Durrance, Wiessner, Bon Homme, Walt Bailey, and Soler use this. From the meadows, follow a 4th class chimney and ramp system to the summit (some parties rope up).

To descend from the summit, a rap anchor is on the south side. two ropes are required. The summit part can either be rappelled or downclimbed to the meadows (easy, but exposed). Then, 3 two rope rappels are required to get down to the ground. Be careful when rappeling from the meadows -- it is very easy to get your rope hopelessly stuck in the cracks, so rap over the face.

Getting There

Drive to Sundance, Wyoming, and then take highway 24 north from I-90. Just follow the signs, and drive towards the big chunk of stone. Turn into the monument and pay the entrance fee. Then continue to the visitor's center. From here, make sure to register for the climb (this is free - used for record keeping and rescues, etc.). Then, approaches differ by route from here.

Resources

National Park Service / Devil's Tower site - Check for all the typical NPS stuff - camping, access, etc.

Devil's Tower Climbing - Great site full of useful information, and home to the Devil's Tower Lodge and Guiding service. A fantastic place to stay just minutes from the climbing. Check out their fly-by footage of the tower!

134 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devils Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 561
Durrance
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Bon Homme Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 207
El Cracko Diablo
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 304
Soler
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 211
Assembly Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 195
Walt Bailey
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 94
Tulgey Wood
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 174
New Wave
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 91
McCarthy West Face (Variant)
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 115
Broken Tree
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 78
Belle Fourche Buttress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Burning Daylight
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 112
One Way Sunset
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 204
El Matador
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Mr. Clean
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Durrance Durrance Approach
 561
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Bon Homme Variation S & E Faces
 90
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
El Cracko Diablo S & E Faces
 207
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Soler S & E Faces
 304
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Assembly Line E & Northeast Buttres…
 211
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Walt Bailey S & E Faces
 195
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tulgey Wood W Face
 94
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
New Wave E & Northeast Buttres…
 174
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
McCarthy West Face (Variant) W Face
 91
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Broken Tree E & Northeast Buttres…
 115
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Belle Fourche Buttress E & Northeast Buttres…
 78
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Burning Daylight E & Northeast Buttres…
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
One Way Sunset W Face
 112
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
El Matador W Face
 204
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Mr. Clean W Face
 67
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
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