Elevation: 4,358 ft
GPS: 44.59, -104.717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 766,645 total · 3,480/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 29, 2002 with 10 Suggestions
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The native name for Devils Tower is Bears Lodge. This is a special place for many people besides climbers, and it is important to respect the closure for the entire month of June!

Devils Tower crams a high concentration of great cracks into the smallest area possible. People come from around the world to climb on this unique wonder. Climbing is sustained, and cracks are beautiful and uniformly shaped. Essentially, there is a crack every 5 or 10 feet, and they mostly run perfectly up and down, which reduces rope drag. The majority of the tower is less than vertical, and faces are blank. There are few face climbs, but who needs them with all these splitter cracks?

The easiest route to the summit is Durrance, which is stout 5.6. In general, climbs that are 5.8 and under tend to be offwidths, 5.9 are hand cracks, and 5.10 are finger cracks. There are too many classics to list. However, check out Assembly Line, Walt Bailey, and Soler for 5.9. For 5.10, go to One-Way Sunset, Hollywood & Vine, and Tulgey Wood.

See "Descent" section below for detailed information regarding rap options.

Getting There

Drive to Sundance, Wyoming, and then take highway 24 north from I-90. Just follow the signs, and drive towards the big chunk of stone. Turn into the monument and pay the entrance fee. Then continue to the visitor's center. From here, make sure to register for the climb (this is free - used for record keeping and rescues, etc.). Then, approaches differ by route from here.

Descent

Per user Where's Walden:

Descent from the summit of the tower is possible with a single 70 meter rope (or two 60's). No matter what route you take, ALWAYS knot your ends and beware of rope eating cracks which are prevalent on the tower. To descend, find a bolted rap anchor on the south side of the tower (climbers right of Durrance) that is accessed by scrambling 15" down from a large cairn. A 35M rappel will bring you a flat stage in the meadows. From there, you have two main options:

Bowling Alley Rappels: These rappels take you to the large bowl directly below the Durrance, a short hike from the paved trail. To locate the rap line, hike about 20 meters right (west) and slightly down from the flat stage to find a bolted anchor on a large block. From here, three ~34M rappels will bring you to the ground. The final rappel requires about 10 feet of unroped 5.5 down climbing from a poor stance, so plan accordingly.

Exit Us Rappels: These rappels deposit you on the ledges at the base of TAD and Soler from which you can walk the narrow ledges around west and down to the ground (sketchy when wet). To locate the anchor, from the flat stage hike far down and left (east) to the bottom corner of the meadows. Two 1/2 inch rappel bolts await you. From here, do 3 rappels to the large treed ledge at the base of Soler. Try not to throw your ropes onto parties climbing below.

Resources

National Park Service / Devil's Tower site - Check for all the typical NPS stuff - camping, access, etc.

Devil's Tower Climbing - Great site full of useful information, and home to the Devil's Tower Lodge and Guiding service. A fantastic place to stay just minutes from the climbing. Check out their fly-by footage of the tower!

135 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devils Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 603
Durrance
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Bon Homme Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 218
El Cracko Diablo
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 316
Soler
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 215
Assembly Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 211
Walt Bailey
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
Tulgey Wood
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 177
New Wave
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 97
McCarthy West Face (Variant)
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 119
Broken Tree
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Belle Fourche Buttress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Burning Daylight
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 120
One Way Sunset
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 220
El Matador
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 70
Mr. Clean
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Durrance Durrance Approach
 603
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Bon Homme Variation S & E Faces
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
El Cracko Diablo S & E Faces
 218
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Soler S & E Faces
 316
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Assembly Line E & Northeast Buttres…
 215
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Walt Bailey S & E Faces
 211
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tulgey Wood W Face
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
New Wave E & Northeast Buttres…
 177
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
McCarthy West Face (Variant) W Face
 97
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Broken Tree E & Northeast Buttres…
 119
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Belle Fourche Buttress E & Northeast Buttres…
 79
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Burning Daylight E & Northeast Buttres…
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
One Way Sunset W Face
 120
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
El Matador W Face
 220
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Mr. Clean W Face
 70
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
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