Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,717 total · 52/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Aug 31, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route takes on the right side of the obvious yellow columns known collectively as the Belle Fourche Buttress. The first pitch is short and goes up the left side of a small block to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. Pitch 2 is around the corner off the right side of the ledge, and it is Spectacular! Down climb a few feet off the ledge and traverse right a foot or two until you are staring up the beautiful finger crack splitting the wall. The next 20 feet is the business! Crank the perfect finger locks until you can get a thin hand jam as the crack widens. The upper part of the pitch is steep hands at an easier grade -ENJOY. The climb ends on a nice ledge. Go to the far side of the ledge to find a bolted anchor atop "Burning Daylight".

Protection

Yellow and Orange TCUs at the crux. #.5 Camalot up to #2 Camalot for upper part of route (doubles would be plenty).
This is why we climb!! Sep 24, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b! Jan 25, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
So good! So good! So good! From the belay this climb is super intimidating, but as soon as you commit to the crack it unfolds perfectly - a bomber jam, jug, or foot right where you need it. My favorite on the tower so far. Seemed fair for the grade, and anyone comfortable on 10b crack won't have a problem.

Nuts, set of TCUs, double set of cams from #0.5 camalot to #3 camalot. Maybe triples of #1-#3 camalot if you want to sew it up. Midway up the pitch I got a bomber green alien in a small crack to the left and was able to save a #1 for later. Sep 16, 2008
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
What kind of sun exposure does this route get? Morning? Afternoon? Apr 5, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Re: sun exposure.

Morning, if I recall correctly.

This is a great little climb. Apr 6, 2009
Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
 
Peter L Scott   Pequot Lakes, MN
 
This is a fantastic climb! I've done it several times. But if I only had a couple days at the tower I'd skip it. It's a classic Yosemite crack (crack splitting a face). I'd want to climb classic Tower cracks (crack in a dihedral). Sep 23, 2011
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
A direct 5.9 start is possible by starting at the base of the crack, before the approach slab. Although this lets you do the route in one long pitch, it featured poor rock and large, hollow flakes and is best avoided. Sep 3, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Some of the best rock and moves at the tower. That's a real compliment. May 30, 2014
Eric Sorte
Albuquerque, NM
 
Eric Sorte   Albuquerque, NM
 
I thought this route was stout. The first 20 feet or so after traversing out onto the face were great, but then the feet disappear on the face and you're stuck with a pure crack climb (fingers)...which takes down my max grade by several number grades! The next 30 feet were really hard, I thought, and then it eases up again. Stellar climb. You DO need double ropes to get off the rappel anchors on top. We didn't have double ropes, and ended up 30 feet shy of the ground, luckily in the vicinity of piton that we were able to rap off of. LPT: Rapping of an ancient piton is scary. Sep 9, 2018