Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris Ballinger, Dennis Horning and Steve Gardiner 7/1978
Page Views: 11,049 total · 42/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Sep 27, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A super-fun route on the west face. This is apparently a good way to summit on the west face, but most parties do not climb beyond the 2nd pitch. The description here only includes the 1st 2 pitches. The 1st pitch is very popular.

This climb can be identified by the prominent roof on the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is directly left of the column forming the left wall of El Matador's stem box.

P1- beginning just to the left of the start of El Matador, scramble easily up to a flake below the obvious roof. The right-hand variation around the roof is the HONG VARIATION (11b) while the left hand variation is 5.9+. Climb the thin hand crack on the left over the bulge (crux). Continue upward past some fun stemming to a bolted belay.

P2- From the belay, the crack heading directly upward to the top of the El matador column is 11c. The W Face Variant takes the crack on the left over a large roof to the steep, endless hand crack above.Climb up the left hand crack and pull the very-difficult roof (crux)... a stem-rest comes right afterward. The roof is protected by a bolt though excellent gear can be placed in the crack. Now that the crux is over, continue more easily, though relentlessly, up the hand crack. This is a long and very-sustained hand-crack... stemming helps.

Continue upwards to the summit (my guess is this isn't done too often) or 2 double rope raps to the ground

Protection Suggest change

Lots of nuts... double set of cams up to #3.5 friend. A #4 friend can be placed at the top of pitch 2. Extra hand sized gear for pitch 2, though I felt solid backcleaning gear and 2 sets seemed sufficient.