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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larsen & Horning - 1982
Page Views: 9,881 total, 54/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 20, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

What a fantastic climb! We climbed this as an approach to Assembly Line - it starts at the Broken Tree area and finishes on top of the pillar where Assembly Line begins. Just to the right of this line is "Broken Tree" - another 10a that follows an obvious steep dihedral formed by, I believe, the Everlasting column.

I led this whole thing in one pitch using a 70m rope - this is definitely the way to do the climb: even with a 60, have your partner tied in and ready to move up the pillar after you as you reach near the top - you will use all the rope. The climb starts off on a ramp and crack and gradually gets steeper and steeper, culminating in a very off-balance step-right move at the bolt. This move is very reminiscent of the crux of p1 of C'est La Vie in Eldorado Canyon in Boulder. Fantastic!

The climbing after this move is still quite difficult (but there are stances), easing after 15'. The climb culminates in 20' of perfect hand crack.

Protection

Stoppers, friends. Mostly thin. There is a pin en-route to the crux and a bomber bolt protecting the crux. Fixed anchors. I used a pair of #2 camalots, but definitely nothing larger.
KG
SLC, UT
  5.10b
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10b
This is the best 10a route I have ever climbed. I would highly recommend it. Super fun! Jun 14, 2017
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
The crux has a variation that goes straight up instead of doing the rightward traverse by the bolt. This uses thin edges and sidepulls and is probably 5.11. Sep 3, 2012
Tyler V
Woodbury, MN
  5.10a
Tyler V   Woodbury, MN
  5.10a
This was my first 10 on the Tower and I loved every second of it. The route starts off easy and just gets harder and harder all the way to the crux where the really balancy moves take over. The gear is solid but a little run out in places, though you can find good stances all over. I didn't carry anything smaller than a #7 BD nut, but if I did it again, I would probably carry a couple nuts in the 5-6 BD range.

The splitter hand crack at the top 20 ft of the climb makes for a total confidence booster after the adrenaline rush at the crux.

A must do if you want to start climbing 10s on the Tower. Sep 23, 2009
phatline
Burlingame, CA
 
phatline   Burlingame, CA
 
I agree with Dr. Evil that it feels easy for the grade--because of the varied moves (face, finger, hand) and plenty of rests. But there are definitely a couple of hard moves. I saw someone take a terrible fall from the rest above the bolt (15' above?); according to people on the ground he fell all the way to his belayer on the slabs. So, an "easy" Tower 5.10a, but still come prepared to climb 5.10a. Jun 6, 2009
Joe Dawson  
 
This route is good fun. The second pitch is one of the better pitches I did while I was at the tower. The moves are varied and the rock is pretty good. Jun 1, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
This route is super fun. Compared to other Devil's Tower routes, it felt much less sustained. Oct 6, 2007
This route is a sweet 10. The crux is kind of different. The climb is awesome and has a great view, if you like climbing 10s I would highly recommend it. Sep 25, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base. Aug 25, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10a
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.10a
This should be the first 10 you do on the Tower. Great moves... great rests... solid pro...

Wow... sounds like a lot of OTHER Tower 10's... Apr 8, 2006
Take the quick yet dicey balance moves of New Wave for 110' to get to the Assembly Line pump. May 29, 2003