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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach

Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maid in the Shade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4-
Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectator Sport T A2-
Stepping Out of Flatland T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 640 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA Bright and Drayna 1972
Page Views: 4,641 total, 23/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

An offwidth climb that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly below Teacher's Lounge. The first two pitches move up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge. A much more attractive start for the 5.10 climber is to climb either New Wave or Broken Tree, both of which take more direct and pleasing lines to the Lounge. Pitch three moves straight left to the crack that splits the first two overhangs. Move up and over the overhangs (crux) and continue on sustained off-feet for another 100', belay at bolts (160'). Continue for another pitch and scramble to the summit, or rappel back to Teacher's Lounge. One can also toprope Patent Pending from the bolts on top of pitch 3, but it is a good lead.

Protection

Thin rack through #3 Camalot, several #4 Camalots

Photos

Tommy Layback
Sheridan, WY
Tommy Layback   Sheridan, WY
P3 is a classic Devils Tower OW - bring plenty of #4 C4s (#5 could also be placed). This pitch is the crack directly left of the money pitch of Assembly Line and it felt harder than Ass. Line --- feels like 5.10 if you don't have your wide game down. P1 and 2 are a bit dirty and uneventful and about 5.5. Sep 27, 2014
cragsavvy
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
Did this for one of my first trad leads. The 2nd pitch isn't as straight forward as the average tower route, it wanders to the left slightly. Watch out for poison ivy! I placed a big cam, and even two big hexes that were bomber. The 1st pitch is fairy low angle. I set up my own belay at the base of the 3rd pitch, but you could walk over to the right and belay from the teacher's lounge anchors, it may cause rope drag though! Sep 25, 2010
Tyler V
Woodbury, MN
  5.8
Tyler V   Woodbury, MN
  5.8
A super laid back way to get to the great views of Teacher's Lounge, or if you want to save all your strength for Assembly Line.

If you are looking for a real challenge at the Tower, this probably isn't worth your time, but for the beginner or if you are just looking to warm up and stretch the limbs out, this would be a great choice to climb.

Better have at least one #4 and a couple #3 BD cams on your sling unless you are willing to really run things out. Sep 23, 2009
phatline
Burlingame, CA
 
phatline   Burlingame, CA
 
We must have missed the OW section; I do recall there being a tree inside a wide crack just before the top-out, but I did some lieback/face climbing outside the crack. We didn't place anything in that crack and it did not feel runout to me. I'm giving this two stars not because it sucks, but because there are so many stellar routes nearby, including two that access the Teacher's Lounge... Broken Tree and New Wave are definitely better routes, so if you can climb 10a you should do one of those. But at many other climbing areas, this would be a 3-star route for sure. Jun 6, 2009
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
the OW pitch has many outside features to work with. do let it scare you off. 2 or 3 #4s will do the trick on the big end of your rack. it takes a comfortable heel-toe and there are many interior edges. the top of P2 has new bolts. Sep 25, 2008
This route is awesome for someone to follow whos just beginning. Its a little confusing on your first lead if you dont know where to go. Other than that the route is awesome. Sep 25, 2006
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.8+
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.8+
If you enjoy off-widths, this is probably the Tower's finest. An INCREDIBLE view!! Apr 9, 2006
Mark M.
Fort Collins, CO
Mark M.   Fort Collins, CO
Teacher Lounge is a great place to hang and take in the view, plus Patent Pending and Assembly Line make for some great climbing. Aug 18, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
 
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
 
"Assembly Line" is the route that can be toproped from the anchors above Pitch 3. Jul 16, 2002